Cutting indoor flowers – what kind, how and when?

HOW TO SHARP ROOM PLANTS AND FLOWERS

CROSSING ROOM FLOWERS AND HOUSE PLANTS

CROSSING ROOM FLOWERS AND HOUSE PLANTS

 

© Author: MARINA RYKALINA TV HOST, FLOWER GROWER PRACTICE, r. SAMARA

CROSS ALL, BUT CORRECT

DROP BALSAM WITH SHERENCAMIA

Last year I was unable to buy the seeds of the trendy New Guinea Balsam. But in the spring I acquired a gorgeous blooming copy and drafted.

This handsome man cannot stand stagnant water and drought.. If it fades, no longer revive.

Doesn't like direct rays of the sun, temperature difference, cold and drafts.

At home, the mother grows for three years, then need to update.

I prepare the substrate for grafting from equal proportions of perlite and coconut.

Transparent cups allow you to observe the development of the root system.

After planting the cuttings, I compact the soil and water it with the addition of "Heteroauxin". You can dip the cuttings in "Kornevin".

I put cups in a bag, but be sure to leave a hole for ventilation.

I send to the warmest and lightest (without direct sun) a place. Cropped uterine specimen - under the lamp, will soon be overgrown with stepsons again.

When planting cuttings of any crops in the ground, try, so that the heels do not reach the bottom of the cup if a lot of moisture accumulates, and twigs can rot even in a light substrate.

Our beloved flowers have grown thoroughly, greenish, and some have already bloomed. It's time to enhance the beauty - cut cuttings from lush bushes and root. Do not know how? Then I'll tell and show, how to do it.

CROSSING ROOM FLOWERS AND HOUSE PLANTS

CROSSING ROOM FLOWERS AND HOUSE PLANTS

PETUNIA ON COAL

I want more white petunias for the balcony this season. It is this color that looks impressive on cloudy days..

I plant cuttings in a plastic greenhouse with a cassette.

I prepare nutritious soil: peat, some vermicompost, perlite, vermiculite and sand.

I put a layer of coal on the bottom of the cassettes, so that the roots do not rot.

I remove the lower leaves on the cuttings, and the upper half cut.

After planting, I press the soil and spill it with "Biosecurity". It is very important to drain excess water from the greenhouse..

I spray the cuttings with water and cover.

I put the greenhouse in a warm, bright place.

Caring for cuttings is reduced to periodic spraying. And you need to monitor moderate soil moisture.

The greenhouse must have slots for air exchange. If you are using food containers, then be sure to make holes.

WHEELS ARE UNIVERSAL

All, who grew the coleus, know, how unpretentious these plants are. I call them sunny colors, since the coloring is revealed as much as possible only under the rays of the sun. And with just one mother plant, you can easily get the right amount of planting material. If you want - plant the cuttings directly into the ground. They will take root even without creating greenhouse conditions.. Or put the twigs in the water - they will quickly become overgrown with roots. In the same way, in May, I cut my fuchsias.

CROSSING PELARGONIA

I don't think, that I will tell you something new about the grafting of pelargonium, but just a reminder.

A few days before the intended cuttings, I feed the mother plant with a complex mineral fertilizer.

I cut off the young growth, remove excess leaves.

Powder the tip of the cutting in "Kornevin" (not necessary) and plant in the ground.

I cook loose substrate for planting: coconut, vermiculite, peat and some vermicompost.

I water the cuttings with warm water with the addition of a chlorella suspension.

I put cups in a bag, tie and make a couple of holes for air exchange (mini greenhouse), sometimes I open and spray.

I keep it in a warm place until rooting.

I add a few drops of potassium humate to the water and put a couple of pieces of coal. I immerse the cuttings on 1/3.

Укоренение черенков комнатных растений в перлите

SECRETS OF CARING FOR ROOM FLOWERS

I mix hydrogel granules into the soil mixture for transplanting cuttings. It absorbs not only water, but also nutrients, which plants then use as needed.

According to the generally accepted rule, I pinch the crown over 3-5 a couple of leaves. Work often stretches over time, since different species and varieties develop differently. One bush may be taller, the other is compact.

Modern hybrids are compact and lush.. At the same time, they do not need large pots.. In such plants, only vegetative mass will grow.. They bloom well even in slightly cramped pots..

At the growth stage, the rooted cuttings are fed with fertilizers in a chelated (biologically active) form, which contains a large amount of nitrogen. When forming peduncles, I stake on phosphorus and potassium. Trace elements and vitamins (I reduce the recommended dose of "Florist micro" by three times) I give on warm evenings twice a week, per sheet.

FOLLOW TEMPERATURE

The effectiveness and speed of rooting is influenced not only by special stimulants.. In principle, you can do without them..

MUCH more important to comply with the temperature regime. Most plants root successfully when +18-23 city.

When working with hard-to-root crops (camellia, fittonia, medinilla, dracena, ste-fanotis, croton, pizonia, etc.) different rules apply. Here, soil heating is needed up to +26-28 city. The air temperature should be at 4-5 city. below.

Секреты успешного укоренения комнатных растений. 🌿 [Надежда и мир]

REPRODUCTION OF ROOM FLOWERS BY LEAVES

Most indoor plants can be propagated by stem cuttings.. They are planted in the ground freshly cut or placed in water for rooting. And it is impossible to cut branches from some flowers. for example, from saintpaulia, in which the leaves form a rosette. But such specimens are easy to reproduce in other ways..

Alternative breeding method Nuances of work
Whole leaf with a petiole (Photo 1). Suitable for Saintpaulia, gloxinia, small-leaved ash- rumia and some begonias (species with short internodes) The sheet is taken at the base of the outlet. The petiole should be up to 5 cm. The tip of the petiole can be dipped in the root-forming gel "Bioclone". Then burrow into loose soil at an angle 45 city, so, so that the bottom surface of the sheet is supported by the side of the bowl. The base of the plate should not touch the substrate. The soil around the petiole is gently crushed. Planting is placed in a greenhouse
Whole leaf (Photo 2).

For succulents (sedum, ehewe- ria, fat woman, etc.)

The adult leaf is separated from the mother liquor and dried for two days.. The surface of the substrate for succulents is sprinkled with sand or vermiculite. The lower part of the leaves is slightly immersed in the ground. If the plates are small, they can be laid flat and slightly pressed into the sand. No greenhouse needed
Part of the sheet (Photo 3). For begonias - royal and Mason, streptocarpus, sansevieria From the tissue of a healthy leaf blade of begonia, triangles with a base in 2-3 cm and buried in the ground at an angle 45 city, on 1/4 heights. A leaf of sansevieria or streptocarpus can be divided into equal horizontal parts and placed in the ground vertically on 1/2 heights. You will need a greenhouse
Stem fragment (Photo 4). Cuttings are cut from old, exposed cordilina stalks, дра­цены, diffenbachia, yucca The stalk must be long 5-6 cm and with at least one node. Plant it vertically or horizontally in the soil.. In the first case, follow, so that the lower end of the stem is in the ground. When planting horizontally, let the kidneys look up., and the stalk itself a little buried in the substrate. It would be good to cover the dish with a bag

 

CROSSING ROOM FLOWERS AND HOUSE PLANTS

CROSSING ROOM FLOWERS AND HOUSE PLANTS

© Author: Andrey SHACHNEV, biologist, r, St. Petersburg

CROSSING ROOM FLOWERS: SAVE SPACE

To save space when rooting cuttings, I use this way.

I put the blanks in a plastic bag, lightly spray with water from a spray bottle, I close and hang on the curtain closer to the light (can be put on the windowsill). Thus, the necessary greenhouse effect is provided for several cuttings at once.. I ventilate the greenhouse about once every three days. If it dries up inside, I irrigate a little with water (I spray the walls), but I don’t make a "swamp".

I tried the method on reo, scindapsuse, gibiskuse, violets, milkweed, cacti. The roots appear later 5-7 days. Violet cuttings, milkweed and cactus before placing in the bag, I dry (from half an hour to two), so as not to rot. After the formation of the roots, I put the "experimental" in pots.

Violet leaves rooted in a zip-bag with soil (high-moor peat and perlite - 50/50). Moistened the substrate poorly (once in two weeks), as the condensate formed on the transparent walls flows down and "waters" the cuttings. Sometimes "watered" them, syringe puncture packaging. The roots appeared later 3-4 weeks.

© Author: Valentina ANDRUSHENKO, r. Kharkiv

Укоренение черенков комнатных растений в воде. Немного о корешках)))

FEEDING CUTTINGS OF HOME FLOWERS

Spring green cuttings of flower crops take root quickly. Before you have time to look back, how the roots will begin to be seen through the transparent walls of plastic cups. This is a signal to, that the plant needs to be transplanted in a week or two. Indeed, in a small container, the substrate dries quickly, and food is not enough. For development and future lush blooming, take care of, so that pets receive everything they need.

I offer two options for solving the problem..

  1. Add one of the special additives dry to the soil when replanting.
Additive Properties Dosage
Buysk fertilizers (WMD) Granules improve the breathability of the substrate, roots begin to "breathe", what stimulates the growth of cuttings 50 g / 5-7 kg of soil
"Root feeder" Complex fertilizer with microelements of prolonged action 1 container package 12- 15 l. When planting or transplanting flowers for drainage, sprinkled with soil 4-6 cm, put the package (do not open!), fall asleep with soil 4-6 see and plant a plant
Biogumus Organic fertilizer, containing essential plant nutrients in a chelated form 2-3 tablespoon / 1 liter of soil mixture
The Eighth Long-acting complex mineral fertilizer Make 1 times in 8-9 months based on 4,5-5,5 g / 1 l of substrate

 

  1. If you did not add an additive to the soil, feed the flowers at the root regularly throughout the season. Alternate preparations.
A drug Properties Dosage
Potassium humate Universal fertilizer, growth promoter. Ideal for use in spring and early summer 1 g powder / 2 l water or 10 ml / 1 l of water
Bona Forte Improves plant immunity, stimulates root formation and flowering 10 ml of 1,5 l of water
"Zemledar" Nourishing water extract from vermi- compost and sapropel. Biological protection against most phytopathogens 10 ml / 2 l of water
Kristalon Balanced composition of essential minerals and trace elements for flowers 5-10 d on 10 l of water, in the summer they are brought under the plants with each watering
"Agrovitamins" The drug enhances the growth of bushes, flowering intensity and duration. Combines with organic fertilizers 1 capsule per pot 5-15 cm (2 pcs / 15- 18 cm, 3 pcs / more 18 cm)

БАЛЬЗАМИН И ПЛЕКТРАНТУС – BLACKED IN AUTUMN

When once there was not enough space for optimal wintering of some plants, cut cuttings from them and rooted. Now I do this all the time in October. Cold regions may lack light at the end of the month, so try to light them up.

Cutting balsam and pletrantus

Cutting balsam and pletrantus

ENDURANCE BALSAM

Balsam grown from seeds is cut and rooted in universal peat-based soil. For convenience, I use cassettes for seedlings. Each cell contains one stalk. I press the substrate only slightly and keep it always moist. In partial shade at a temperature not exceeding +22 city, roots are formed in about a week. The established cuttings overwinter on a sunny windowsill. They are quite comfortable with +16 city. In favorable conditions, they even bloom.

DELICATE PLEKTRANTUS

I cut the shoots from the ampelous variegated plectrantus with a length of approximately 8-10 cm. I remove the lower foliage and plant it in a wet (not wet!) priming. Usually, on average, after a week, roots appear.. Light is important for this plant in winter., so on the windowsill I choose the sunniest place for him. I water moderately, after the soil has dried, avoiding waterlogging. Content temperature - not lower + 17 city.

© Author: Elena BALYAVINA, Krasnodar region.

Advice:

ROOTING IN THE GREENHOUSE:

coleus cuttings; heliotrope; pelargonium; bacopa; hypoesthesia; vegetative petunia; ever-flowering begonias; other plants, decorating balconies and summer cottages in summer.

The planted twigs will turn into fluffy bushes next spring., from which you can take even more planting material. Keep cuttings of these cultures in a bright place when +15-17 city.


Instead of purchased root stimulants, I use folk remedies.

for example, honey and aloe help to root cuttings of different plants and at any time of the year, especially in cold and rainy weather, with a lack of sun.

  1. IN 0,5 l pour warm water into the jar, dissolve in it 1/3 ч.л.. honey. I pour such an amount into a separate glass container, to immerse the stem by a third. Later 12 hours I put it in clean water.
  2. In a glass dish filled with water (half a glass) add 5-7 drops of freshly squeezed aloe juice and dip the stalk into it until the roots appear. With the help of these funds, she rooted Fittonia, tol-styanku (Money Tree), gibiskus, violet leaves, etc..

PELARGONIA IN POTATOES

My potato, cut in half, in the middle of the half I cut a deep hole with a knife so, so that you can insert a stalk of pelargonium and it does not dangle. I pour some water (add as it dries). If the escape is big, then I don’t cut the potatoes, but just undercut, to stand straight. When roots appear, I plant the cutting in the ground.

RAW ACTIVATOR

IN 0,5 l warm water dissolve 50 mg of raw yeast and immerse the cutting for a day (Money Tree, chrysanthemum, kalanchoe, reo). Then I wash it under a stream of warm water and put it in a glass container with clean water..

© Author: Valentina FEDOTOVA, r. Nizhny Novgorod


MARCH – TIME TO CUT INDOOR FLOWERS

It's a good time to propagate plants from cuttings.. And we have something to offer you. After all, the authors have accumulated vast experience in this area.. Listen to their advice - and you can easily replenish your collection with your favorite varieties and species..

CUTTINGS OF HOUSE PLANTS – USEFUL TIPS

plant parts, slated for breeding, separate with a sharp disinfected knife. Alcohol is suitable for processing the instrument (vodka), hydrogen peroxide, Chlorhexidine.

Sterile sand can be poured over the soil in containers with plantings. (washed and pan fried, to prevent rot) and keep it and the soil constantly wet, preventing waterlogging and drying out.

The place for rooted cuttings should be light, but without direct sun. In the middle lane and to the north, lighting and lower heating will not be superfluous throughout March (eg, in the form of special mats).

APPROACH TO CUTTINGS

In thick-leaved plants (fat women, stonecrop morgan, godson Gerrain, Saintpaulia) pinch off the leaves and plant them in a loose, water-permeable substrate, as for cacti.

Healthy plate of syningia, streptocarpus, decorative leaf begonias cut into pieces, lay on a damp substrate and pin along the veins for better contact.

Dieffenbachia stem without leaves, divided into pieces, each of which should have a leaf base. Lay out on a damp substrate and press lightly.

© Author: Ludmila ULEISKAYA, Cand. biol. Science

WHICH ENVIRONMENT TO CHOOSE

Select a substrate, which is better suited to certain plants for the formation of roots? Keep a cheat sheet.

Almost dry soil with the addition of sand or perlite succulent plants, whose fleshy stems are afraid of rotting in a wet mixture: kalanchoe, desert cacti, epiphyllums, Schlumber – heroes, ripsalis, пеларго­нии, milk, haworthia, etc.. Rooted without a greenhouse, but some species will require regular spraying
Moist and loose (better alive) sphagnum moss Aroid cuttings, including children of spathiphyllums and anthuriums Put them in a greenhouse and spray occasionally
wetted perlite Leafy cuttings of decorative leafy begonias, violets, as well as aroid, taken from diseased plants after removal of all rotting parts Root in a spacious greenhouse without spraying
Wet soil with the addition of perlite or peat (coconut) tablets Any ficus cuttings, ги­бискуса, myrtle, north; for stem - dracaena and yucca Need a greenhouse and regular spraying
Water Most aroid (фи­лодендрон, monstera, raffidophora, scindapsus, epi – premnum, syngonium, dieffenbachia, aglaonema) ; begonia stem cuttings, column, coleus, бальза­минов, tradescantia; apical - dracaena and yucca A greenhouse is usually not needed.. After the formation of roots, the cuttings are planted in the substrate., preferred for each culture

ROOT GROWTH STIMULANTS

There are many for sale now.. What is the most efficient? Hard to say, because each grower has his own preferences. I'll tell you, what i use myself.

"KORNEVIN"

Popular and inexpensive. However, when working with it, you need to remember two factors., which can reduce efforts to stimulate root formation to nothing:

  • overdose (instructions must be strictly followed) ;
  • weak cutting from a diseased plant (hormonal drug, taking most of the energy, to start root growth, just ruin it).

For the rest, only the nuances of application remain..

Use a dry preparation immediately before rooting, preferably with a fungicide (10:1), to provide protection against pathogens.

When the substrate is spilled with the Kornevin solution immediately after planting the cutting, it is important to re-irrigate with this agent - through 2-3 weeks.

I DO AN ANALOGUE

No less popular is the Clonex stimulant gel.. However, it is expensive. Therefore, I prepare an approximate analogue myself.

Need to 5 g "Kornevin" dissolve in 25 ml of alcohol or 50 ml of vodka (for dissolving indolylbutyric acid), refill 1 l warm boiled water and add 1 ampoule of thiamine (vitamin B,). Components are given per liter volume, but I'll tell you from experience, what can be done on 250 ml, quite enough. Any gelling agent is needed to create a gel-like substance, eg, starch. So, using wallpaper paste based on it, I get a similar "Clonek-su" gel, only much cheaper.

© Author: Lilia MALTSEVA, agrochemist, r. Novy Oskol

RELIABLE CUTTING METHOD

As promised to readers of the magazine, share my cutting experience (from March to September) lavra, lemon, bugenvillei, ficus benjamin, fuchsias, clerodendrum, callistemona, croton.

LANDING

I choose apical, slightly lignified cuttings of this year's growth and cut at an angle 45 city. I put the shoots of ficus for an hour in warm water to drain the milky juice.

Then I dip all the branches with the lower cut into dry “Korne-vin” and plant them in plastic glasses (200 r). They: at the bottom - small expanded clay, 2/3 volume - soil "Ficus". I pour a low-nutrient mixture to the top, which I prepare in advance and store in a tightly closed container: soak in water 10 medium peat tablets, I press and, removing from each grid, mix in equal parts with chopped (by 1 cm) sphagnum.

Spraying the substrate and cuttings from a spray bottle, I put landing in plastic bags.

Spraying the substrate and cuttings from a spray bottle, I put landing in plastic bags.

CONDITIONS AND CARE

In late spring and summer, on the shelf next to the south window, I do not light up the cuttings.

Content temperature - +22-25 city.

Once in 3 day I ventilate the greenhouse and, if necessary, spray the cuttings.

It is important to monitor soil moisture, do not overfill, otherwise there is a danger of decay.

I remove the cover from the cuttings, only when the roots are clearly visible through the walls of the glass (at the laurel - later 1-1,5 months, lemon - about a month, in — 3-4 weeks, in callistemon and clerodendrum - 2 weeks). Then I start watering, without waterlogging.

© Author: Natalya GLUSHAK. Altai region


CUTTING TO SAVE

Sometimes cuttings are the only way to save a plant with diseased roots or a damaged stem.. And although it is clear, that cuttings take root well only from healthy specimens, However, it is still necessary to give the victim a chance to live. Moreover, in the summer, regeneration processes are much more efficient.. What nuances need to be taken into account when "extreme" cuttings, plant protection specialist says, collector Danuta GOLOVACH.

IDEAL ENVIRONMENT

The soil for rooting cuttings should be depleted in organic matter., its excess causes decay.

Substrate options for cuttings

  • Peat + sand (1:1), with crushed sphagnum.
  • Sphagnum moss (preferably live; dry - moderately moisturize).
  • Peat soil + sand/perlite.
  • coco substrate (soak gradually).
  • Perlite (moisten until completely saturated).
  • Peat/coconut tablets.

STERILITY IS IMPORTANT

The success of rooting cuttings largely depends on the purity of the environment., in which they are placed. Peat or coconut tablets, coco substrate, perlite is usually used immediately. Peat soil is thermally treated before use (in the microwave, in a water bath, etc.). However, it is possible to disinfect the substrate without steaming., spillage of microbiological agents: "Shine", "Baikal-EM 1", "Vostok-EM 1". But such a procedure must be carried out for at least 2 weeks before soil use, otherwise microorganisms will not have time to multiply and suppress pathogens.

ABOUT LANDING

Choose a transparent container for planting: it is important to monitor the process of root formation through the walls, because you have to work with a problem plant. For small cuttings, disposable cups with a volume are suitable 100 ml, larger - 200-500 ml. Needs drainage holes.

The substrate must not be too wet..

Sections of shoots must be powdered with "Kornevin" or other root-forming drug.

MAINTAIN HUMIDITY

After planting, the cuttings are sprayed with water with "Zircon", put in a greenhouse (a transparent container with a lid or cut across five – or 1.5 liter water bottles) and put in the light, without direct rays, warm place. Succulents, pelargoniums do not need to be covered.

With high humidity in the greenhouse, the cuttings are not watered until rooting.. If the substrate is dry, gently moisturize it. Succulents are watered for the first time after planting through 7-10 days (when the soil is dry), skimpy and off the pallet, so that only the bottom layer gets wet through the drainage holes. So the shoots won't rot, and the roots will grow back quickly. Pelargonium cuttings are also rooted. It is advisable to spray them often at this time..

Water collects at the bottom of the greenhouse? There is a danger, that the soil will become waterlogged and the cuttings will rot. To keep this from happening, you can put a newspaper on the bottom of the container (paper towels, etc.) and periodically change to dry.


CUTTING OF ROOM PLANTS – VIDEO

Черенкование комнатных растений. Biologist's advice

A source 2

In preparing the article, materials from a wonderful publication were used “Home flowers”

2 thoughts on “Cutting indoor flowers – what kind, how and when?”

  1. Гульмира БЕКИЖАНОВА

    Черенкую комнатные растения круглый год.

    Мне всегда интересно, какие из них и в какое время более «сговорчивые». Осень-зима — не исключение, укореняю побеги лишь с поправкой в содержании, так как мало света и надо регулировать температуру.
    Хорошо образуют корни ароидные (monstery, syngoniums, scindapsus, epipremnums), balsams, begonias. Ставлю побеги в воду, бросив в нее таблетку активированного угля, и регулярно меняю на свежую.
    Ficuses, hibiscus, мирты лучше и быстрее укореняются в субстрате (торф+перлит или песок, кокосовый грунт, торфяные таблетки, perlite).
    НЮАНСЫ ПРОЦЕССА
    1. Срезы обрабатываю корнеобразо-вателем: "Kornevin", "heteroauxin", «Фитоклон».
    2. Посаженные черенки ставлю, опрыскав чистой водой, в тепличку и — на стеллаж под лампу (daylight hours - 10-12 hours). На подоконнике не держу, так как солнце хотя и неактивное, но трудно удержать оптимальную температуру +22-25 city.
    3. Посадки проветриваю раз в 1 – 2 дня и опрыскиваю. При необходимости смачиваю грунт, поддерживая его во влажном, но не сыром состоянии.

  2. Крепкие черенки

    Укорененные в прошлом году (from March to September) черенки лимона, lavra, fuchsias, bugenvillei, ficus benjamin, clerodendrum, callistemona, кротона всю осень держала под лампами. К зиме корни уже хорошо сформированы, и растения на самом светлом окне могут обойтись без подсветки. Но чтобы они были крепкими и прекрасно пережили зимовку, необходимо правильно действовать с самого начала — от заготовки побегов. Главное условие — они должны быть немного одревесневшими. Нарезаю черенки с вызревшего прироста текущего года. Как это делаю, куда высаживаю, какие условия обеспечиваю? Расскажу ближе к сезону.

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