Pests and diseases of house flowers and indoor plants from A to Z

HOW TO FIGHT PESTS AND DISEASES OF HOUSEHOLD FLOWERS AND ROOM PLANTS

Plants in the home can and should be healthy.

And it doesn't take too much: monitor their condition and take appropriate measures in time.

MUSHROOM DISEASES IN INDOOR PLANTS AND HOUSEHOLD FLOWERS

In plants, standing on cold windowsills, by the middle of autumn, various rot may appear, since dampness and low temperature create favorable conditions for the development of fungal diseases.

The reason for the browning and wilting of the leaves is often associated with gray rot., which starts with a small brown spot, and then quickly spreads and passes from leaves to petioles, branches and even roots. Gray rot – one of the most dangerous diseases of herbaceous plants with juicy fleshy tissues. This is a frequent attack of the Coleus, begoni, violets and bulbous.

When transplanting plants, severely affected by gray mold, all brown leaves and shoots must be carefully trimmed and removed, being careful not to infect the soil of the new pot with plant debris.

Fusarium rot begins with root damage. Plants, hard hit by her, have a rotten brown root system, on the surface of which the growth of white mycelium is often noticeable.

It is difficult to save such flowers, since they have all vessels affected. Even if you try to root individual branches, there is always a chance, that they will die from this disease. Therefore, it is not recommended to take cuttings from them for propagation..

For fungal diseases, plants are treated with fungicidal preparations. It is recommended to use insecticides against harmful insects, acaricides or insectoacaricides. There are also biological plant protection products, bacteria-based, suppressing the development of pathogens.

Diseases and pests of home flowers - description and photo

Diseases and pests of home flowers – description and photo

 

BACTERIAL DISEASES OF HOUSEHOLD FLOWERS AND ROOM PLANTS

Most often, the development of bacterial diseases is provoked by keeping the plant in unsuitable conditions for it and improper care..

Soft bacterial rot is usually the result of over-watering. With such a disease, the roots rot, and the top of the plant comes off. A pungent unpleasant odor always emanates from a diseased plant.. On the leaves, the defeat of bacterial rot is manifested by brown spots with a yellow halo.. Then the yellowing and drying of the leaves of the lower layer begins..

After that, the root collar and stem soften.. Moreover, bacterial rot always spreads from the bottom up., from the root system. Therefore, often, when the disease is already clearly visible, it is impossible to save the plant. true, you can try to root its top.

In the early stages of the disease, all rotten roots and stems should be trimmed to healthy tissue, rinse in potassium permanganate and transplant the plant into another pot with new soil. The pot size must match the remaining root system, since a more spacious container can provoke further decay.

If you accidentally flooded the plant, lightly dry the earthy ball, and then water the soil with a pink solution of potassium permanganate, for the prevention of bacteriosis, developing in wet soil.

Citrus fruits are most susceptible to bacterial spotting., amaryllidaceae, diffenbachia, begonias, dracaena, orchids and many plants with fleshy leaves. Most often, the disease develops, when flowers are too close to each other, in a poorly ventilated room, the temperature and humidity are increased. Watery spots first appear on green parts of the plant, blurry, they are usually located along the veins. Spots grow over time, turning brown, brown or black with a yellowish green border around the edge.

All affected parts must be trimmed, and treat the plant with a copper-containing preparation. Such treatment is effective at the initial stage of the disease., if the plant is severely affected, then you have to get rid of it.

Diseases and pests of home flowers - description and photo

Diseases and pests of home flowers – description and photo

PESTS OF HOUSEHOLD FLOWERS AND ROOM PLANTS

In the fall, plants are usually returned to the house from balconies and from the garden.. Together with them, some pests often "move", who are not averse to feasting on indoor flowers. Sometimes pests can be introduced with new plants., purchased in the store, and even with bouquets of flowers.

The presence of a spider mite is most often determined by a characteristic thin cobweb, on leaves and flowers. But when she is already clearly visible, it means, that the pest managed to severely damage the plant. At the very first stages of the "occupation" it is quite difficult to notice ticks. Their larvae are generally invisible., and the pests themselves are very small, translucent, greenish or yellowish tint, up to 0,3 mm.

When daylight hours decrease, spider mites hibernate, they are not

leave the plant, but stop eating. When does the day get longer (from about mid-February), pest females wake up. At this time, they are already quite noticeable due to their bright orange color.. After a while, they turn greenish-yellow again.. Another sign, allowing to accurately determine the presence of a pest on a plant, – so-called marbling of leaves.

Spider mites infect a wide variety of plants – dracaena, indoor roses, ficuses. One of the varieties of pest – citrus red mite – settles on lemons, mandarin, kalamandinah.

Whitefly looks like a small butterfly with milky white wings., which size is about 2 mm. She is very mobile and flies quickly., if you shake the plant or touch its branch. Pest larvae sit motionless on the underside of the leaf. They are translucent and unobtrusive..

Most often, whitefly damage pomegranate, pelargonium, poinsettia, pahistahis. To get rid of her, the plant is taken out onto the balcony or outside and actively shaken. With a small infection, this technique is most effective..

Aphid, unlike whitefly, sedentary insect size 1-5 mm. The color of the pest can be very diverse. – from light yellow, greenish or pink to black. Usually the larvae also live on the plant., and adult wingless, and winged individuals. Most often, the pest colonizes the underside of the leaf., young peduncles, accumulates in leaf axils.

Diseases and pests of home flowers - description and photo

Diseases and pests of home flowers – description and photo

Aphids like plants with delicate leaves most of all. – codiaums, sankhetsii, aqualifs. A large rose aphid often settles on indoor roses., which can enter the house with a bouquet of roses.

Inexperienced florists are often mistaken for scale insects and false scale insects for a manifestation of the disease.. Insects look like growths and plaques, located on branches and leaves (mostly along the veins). Adult females surround themselves with waxy secretions and sit motionless., while the larvae, almost invisible to the eye, scatter throughout the plant.

Scabbard coloring, usually, bright. Darker false shields usually have a convex shape.. Pests can infect a wide variety of plants – citrus, orchids, palm, ficuses and codiaums.

If there are not many pests on the plant, then you can collect them manually and destroy. Spraying with infusions and decoctions of onions helps well, garlic, mustard white. It is recommended to add laundry soap to such herbal remedies., so that the solution lingers on the leaves and stems of the plant.

You can also get rid of some sucking pests with the help of a cold shower., but you will have to spend it no less 3 once a week. The plant is placed on its side in the bath, the soil is protected with plastic wrap and a strong stream of water is poured over the leaves from top to bottom. It is advisable to resort to chemical means of protection only as a last resort..

Treatment of indoor plants from pests and diseases. Tips from the company your garden

HOW TO PROPERLY PROCESS A HOME PLANT FOR PESTS AND DISEASES

First, let's define, what does "process" mean? This means thoroughly spraying each part of the plant from a fine spray with a solution of the preparation.. This will require: spray, empty bottle, latex gloves, protective glasses, face mask and large plastic bag.

In the warm season, processing is best done outdoors or on a balcony., and in autumn and winter – In bathroom.

There must be no animals or children in the room.

Put on your mask, glasses and gloves. Prepare working solution according to the instructions, pour it into a bottle, then put a spray bottle on the bottle and shake well.

Spray the plant thoroughly. It is necessary to cover all leaves with the finest water dust., petioles and stems. Pay special attention to the underside of the sheet.. It is there that the bulk of the pests accumulates and there they lay very small, eggs often invisible to the eye.

If sphagnum moss is laid on the soil surface, collect and throw it away, and the earth

and the edges of the pot are also thoroughly sprayed. Place a plastic bag over the plant after processing. This will prolong and enhance the effect of the drug.. It is advisable to remove the package not earlier than after 4 h.

Then the plant must be allowed to dry in a place protected from direct sun..

If spots and smudges appear on the leaves from spraying, do not rush to wash them off with water. It will be possible to send the plant to the shower only after 3-4 days.



COMMON PESTS AND CONTROL OF HOUSEHOLD PLANTS – TABLE

COMMON PESTS EFFECTIVE PRODUCTS ON A NOTE
Trips Systemic preparations of intestinal action ("Aktara", “Conf- dor »and others.) with maintenance treatment with contact insecticides. Spray (4 d preparation of 5 l of water) and spill soil (1 d on 10 l of water) four times with an interval of 7-10 days

Conduct auxiliary intimates (through 3-4 days) processing "Akarpnom", "Agravertine", "Iskroj Bio", “Inta- Virom », «Fitovermom»

Hang sticky traps in blue and yellow;

if thrips is found, it is necessary to process all the plants in the house

Whitefly Main treatment - with "Apploud" insecticides (1 d on 1 l of water; spray at intervals 10-14 days) and "Aktara" (опры­скать (4 d preparation of 5 l of water) and spill soil (1 d on 10 l of water) four times with an interval of 7-10 days) It is possible to briefly heat an enclosed space with damaged plants to a temperature above +40 city, (eg, on a sunny day, tightly close the glazed balcony or greenhouse)
Auxiliary close processing "Iskra Bio", “Inta- Virom », «Fitovermom»
Aphid One- or double treatment with "Aktara" (spraying (4 d preparation of 5 l of water) and watering (1 yul water)), "Akarpnom", "Agravertin" or "Iskroj Bio" (spraying - 5-8 ml of 1 l of water) Insects may not die right away, and after a few hours. All plants in the house should be treated, because aphids move easily
Dolgonosiki Spraying with "Aktara" (4 d preparation of 5 l of water) and soil spillage (1 d on 10 l of water) - four times with an interval of 7-10 days Collect adult insects by hand
Spider mite For emergency assistance, you need to wash the plant under the shower and treat it three times with Vertimek acaricides, Fitoverm: at +20 city. - across 10 days or at +30 city, through 3-4 days. Will help processing "Akarpnom", "Agravertine", "Neoron" - four times with an interval of 7-10 days. Good result is obtained by the drug "Ortran" (1 d on 1 -2 l of water) For prevention purposes, it is useful to often spray the plants with cold water., especially the underside of the leaves
Gall nematodes Remove heavily damaged root areas. Thermally treat the root system and soil in a large volume of water at a temperature 50 city. Not to be confused with Gauls, the presence of nodules on the roots of some plants, eg,the representatives of the legume family live in nitrogen fixes- shitting bacteria

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Frequent pests of indoor plants - table

Frequent pests of indoor plants – table

IT'S IMPORTANT TO KNOW

For insects, flowers should be treated with insecticides., from ticks - acaricides. c Systemic water-soluble drugs of the new generation "Aktara", "Confidor", Mospilan », Apache
etc. have a damaging effect on a wide range of pests, relatively safe for others, they are well tolerated by plants. I do not recommend using it in a residential area "Actellik", "Fufanon", Carbophos.


STOP, INFECTION!

If starts falling freshly planted stalk, usually tend to, that he was struck by a black leg, however, this can also be a bacterial infection..

WHAT WON'T HELP

This disease is much less common and outwardly looks like the transformation of healthy tissue into a mucous, fetid. And then such fungicides, like "Maxim", which acts on the surface, Fundazol and Skor, impregnating the plant through and through, "Copper oxychloride", practically useless. Although antibiotic treatment stops the development of the disease, but strongly poisons plants with a weak root system. This is especially true for cuttings of pelargonium prone to various pathogens., like rooting, already planted.

RUNNING TO THE PHARMACY

Use "Stimulus" as a preventive measure, Gulliver. When are the first symptoms of unhealthy cutting visible?, it's time to start taking medicine. Drugs from the pharmacy will help - "Mukosanin" or "Polyhexonide". Solution (1 ч.л.. on 250 ml of water) water the plant at least 3 once after drying the soil. Also, the product can be used for root formation.: dilute 1:5 and put the handle in it on 3-6 hours before planting or water after, before the start of new growth.

TIMELY HELP

BEGONIA STUD

This gorgeous beauty needs space, a lot of scattered light, temperature differences day and night. She will decorate the garden from spring to autumn, balcony or veranda in hanging baskets. the main thing, don't miss the moment, when the plant needs urgent help.

If there is a lot of organic matter in the substrate for begonia, then at the gulf, stagnant air or coolness, young seedlings often infect mushroom rot. Follow, so that the tuber is planted in sterile soil or with a large amount of perlite.

When brown spots appear on the leaves, not so scary yet. Treatment with fungicides will help, and less watering. But on the stem - this is stem rot. Cut the shoot above the damage and place in water. Although cuttings of tuberous begonia do not form roots well, there is still a chance.

A plant preparing for flowering suddenly loses its tour-gor? Root failure. If the stem is green, Not everything is lost: reduce watering and, spraying the plant with a fungicide, put in a greenhouse.

DIPLDDENIA

Liana is not afraid of direct rays, and it is in the sun that the stems grow compact, with short internodes, and diplophenia blooms profusely. The blackness on the dying ones should alert (when icing, oversupply of fertilizers, burns with chemicals, etc.) twigs of a plant - necrosis. This fungal disease is hard to stop, and the damage goes from top to bottom. Trim to living tissue below the outbreak as quickly as possible and treat with any fungicide 2-3 times with an interval 7-10 days. Diseases, coming from the roots, in most cases they stop themselves when the care is normalized.


LET'S DISRUPT THE "HOLIDAY" FOR PESTS OF ROOM PLANTS

Florists, especially those, who has large collections, know, how much effort does it take, so that each plant pleases with its appearance and develops well. The issue of preserving green pets is acute in the autumn-winter period.. Indeed, it is often at this time that pests settle on them and reproduce quickly in hot conditions.. How to deal with them? Let's find the answers together!

INSECTICIDES FOR INDOOR PLANTS: WHAT TO CHOOSE?

I use "chemistry" only when absolutely necessary, eg, if most of the collection is infected. I think contact drugs are not so effective, as they act on pests, only if they fall on them. But it is not always possible to thoroughly spray every leaf.. And if the mealybug is really caught and processed, then with whitefly and thrips this number will not work. Adults, flying away and sitting out until the solution dries, start the "meal" again. Therefore, it is better to use systemic insecticides. (my main assistant is "Aktara"). A plant watered with them at the root becomes poisonous to pests.

PRACTICAL PROS

Long-term action of a toxic substance.

By using system tools, processing time is significantly reduced (plants do not need to be sprayed, just water).

SAFETY

Chemicals can be used in the apartment

3 or 4 hazard class (read on the package). They, what 1 and 2 class, only suitable for outdoor processing.

It is important to know the fumigation properties of the "killer" - will there be toxic fumes after its application.

The room temperature must be taken into account: the higher it is, the more intensively the preparation evaporates.

During work, you need to protect yourself: latex gloves, gauze bandage, glasses, full body clothing.

After the procedure, we ventilate the room and it is advisable not to be there for a day..

The entire period of processing, the plants and the earth are poisonous, therefore we protect children and animals from contact with them.

© Author: Inna KRAVCHENKO, collector

ON A NOTE

Relatively safe for others, well tolerated by plants, effective against most pests - new generation systemic water-soluble preparations "Ak-tara", "Confidor", "Mospilan", "Apaches" and others.

Not recommended for use in "Actellik" dwelling, "Fufanon", Carbophos.

Natalia SEMENOVA, biologist, collector


CONVENIENCE NOBODY CANCELED

Daily flower inspections, frequent treatments, the toxic smell of "chemistry" is still a pleasure. So I, eg, has long given up on such tools, leaving on "armament" only a rare soul. And who wants to tinker with plants before the holidays??

FOR EVERY TASTE

In the fight against uninvited guests, systemic intestinal insecticides in the form of arrows will help, pills and sticks. They start working through 10-14 days after application to the ground, with a period of protection up to 90 days. With them you can forget about the shield, background, mealybug The drug gradually dissolves with each watering, it is absorbed by the roots stepwise and accumulates in the plant for a long time. This allows you to avoid time-consuming work with treatments in an apartment.. Such drugs, as "Doctor" (arrows), Iskra, "Etisso", "Clear sheet", contain various additives: fertilizers, fungicides (additionally protect the plant from powdery mildew, root rot, anthracnose) etc. I prefer complex systemic insectoacaricides («Plant pin», Provado) - sticks and arrows from all pests, including ticks. The action is manifested through 2-7 days, protective period - 2-3 months.

ABOUT CONS

It is necessary to water the soil only from above, that is, pots with automatic watering "disappear".

Such preparations are not suitable for orchids., since their roots are not adapted for the absorption of substances from the stick and burns are possible at the point of contact.

© Author: Lilia MALTSEVA, agrochemist, collector

PREPARATIONS Pests DOSAGE
"Aktara", "Confidor" shield and false shield, mealybug, trips, whitefly, long-legged spray (4 g / 5 l) and spill soil (1 g / 10 l) 4-крат­но, interval 7-10 days
"Mospilan" mealybug, trips 1 d on 1 l of water - shed soil and spray plants

3 times with an interval of 5-7 days

Apache trips, shield, mealybug, mushroom gnats, root pests 0,5 d on 1 l of water for spraying or 1 d on 1 l for watering
Fitoverm spider mite 2 ml of 0,5 l of water, process 2-3 times: at +20 city.

- across 10 days; at +30 city. - across 3-4 days


PESTS OF HOUSE FLOWERS – WE DO WITHOUT "CHEMISTRY"

On the eve of spring, in conditions of lack of light and in dry air, plants are weakened and vulnerable. But pests become active. You can deal with them, without resorting to chemicals.

Aphids and spider mites are harvested by hand if detected early., wash with a sponge or rinse in the shower.

The worms are cleaned with a brush, soaked in a solution of potassium liquid (green) soap. After a few hours, wash the plant. Heavily damaged parts are removed immediately..

This method can also be used against spider mites.. If after 2-3 pest procedures are not gone, will have to use other methods.. By the way, do not neglect the preventive measure - once a week a warm shower.

Decoctions and infusions help fight parasites (see recipes. below). They are prepared before use and surfactants are added., eg, potassium liquid or laundry soap: 3-4 g is diluted in a small amount of water and poured into the working solution.

INfusion RECIPES

250-300 mince g garlic, pour over 1 l boiling water and keep in a closed dark glass dish 5 days. For spraying 6 dilute g infusion 1 l of water.

6-8 pour onion peel 1 l boiling water, insist 2 days, strain.

© Author: Ludmila ULEISKAYA. Cand. biol. Science


WHAT PESTS LIVE IN VASES?

Unwanted "passengers" fall into flower pots with contaminated soil, through the window, with organic fertilizers.

Springtails (or collembola)

Tiny ones (not more 5 mm) arthropods. Appear from waterlogging, feed on organic matter. If there is not enough food, may begin to "eat" the roots

mushroom mosquitoes (or sciarids)

3-4 mm in length, run on the surface, hiding in the top layer of soil, fly around the pot. Love waterlogged soil. Flying adults do not harm the plant., but can carry diseases and other pests

Mushroom mosquito larva

White, translucent worms from 3 to 5 mm in length, with a dark head. With a large population, the roots of the plant are damaged., and the wounds from high humidity begin to rot.

Nematodes

roundworms. Live in different parts of plants. In the root system, larvae are deposited directly into the root, forming thickenings and round swellings. Larva - translucent worm. There are many types of nematodes of various shapes and sizes.. Difficult to withdraw. Complete soil replacement required, pot and prolonged treatment with insecticides

Enchytrea

Small mobile white worms with a pointed end, earthworm-like, have a segmented body. They live only in the root system, so it's hard to see. A large population inhibits the plant

PREVENTION

Soil disinfection before planting. for example, can be ignited 20-30 min. in the oven at 220 city.

Competent agricultural technology. Do not over-moisten the substrate.

Preventive treatments for pests in spring and autumn.

Use of mineral substrate, since most parasites do not live in it.

STRUGGLE

Insecticides will help get rid of these unwanted inhabitants in a flowerpot..

Mushroom mosquitoes and their larvae will disappear, if you adjust the watering and dry the soil. You can also fill the surface of the substrate with fine-grained diatomaceous earth..

© Author: Olga MARSO, collector


THE MOST DANGEROUS PESTS OF HOUSE PLANTS IN SPRING AND FIGHTING THEM

In the spring, our green pets, weakened by wintering, become especially vulnerable to various pests.. What means to use in order to prevent and combat them, Lyudmila Uleyskaya will tell, Cand. biol. Science.

PEST MOST DAMAGED SPECIES COMBAT MEASURES
Spider mite Abutilon, allocation, akalifa, begonias, beloperone, bromeliads, gardenia, гиби­скус, ginura, indoor jasmine, kalateya, clerodendrum, croton, column, arrowroot, poinsettia, мурая, oleander, pachypodium, pelargonium, peperomias, ivy, miniature rose, sansevieria, Saintpaulia, sleep – phyllum, streptocarpus, phalaenopsis, fate – ink, ficuses, fittonia, fuchsia, cyclamen, cissus, sheffler Spraying with infusions of garlic and onion peel. 250-300 mince g garlic, pour over 1 l boiling water and insist in a closed dark glass dish 5 days. For spraying 6 d insisted on diluting 1 l of water. 6-8 pour onion peel 1 l boiling water, insist 2 days, strain
Whitefly Abutilon, akalifa, beloperone, brovallia, column, pelargonium, selaginella, fascia, fuchsia, ciperus Treatment with Inta preparations – Whirlpool", Iskra Bio, Fitoverm (according to instructions)
Shields, false shields ferns, anthurium, akalifa, afelandra, brunfelsia, bromeliads, gardenia, hypocort, dieffenbachia, dracena, Indoor jasmine, Cattleya, clerodendrum, oleander, ivy, selaginella, syngonium, scindapsus, tradescantia, phalaenopsis, ficuses, philodendron, fittonia, rug, cissus, sheffler Garlic infusion or outdoor treatment with Karbofos
Mealybug ferns, anthurium, afelandra, брун­фельсия, bugenvillea, bromeliads, гар­дения, dieffenbachia, column, пуансет­тия, oleander, peperomias, Saintpaulia, spathiphyllum, scindapsus, fascia, ficuses, philodendron, ciperus, cissus, sheffler Replace topsoil, shed the substrate and spray the plant with "Aktara"
Aphid Abutilon, ferns, allocation, акали­фа, anthurium, begonias, beloperone, Bro – vallia, brunfelsia, bugenvillea, гарде­ния, gibiskus, ginura, hypocort, dracena, indoor jasmine, kalateya, croton, му­райя, pelargonium, azalea, miniature rose, selaginella, Saintpaulia, syngonium, spathiphyllum, streptocarpus, scindapsus, tradescantia, fascia, fuchsia, chlorophy – tum, ciperus Processing "Aktara", "Akarpnom", "Iskra Bio" of all plants in the house
thrips Dracena, pachypodium, ivy, сансевие­рия, philodendron Systemic preparations of intestinal action (according to instructions) - "Act – ra», "Confidor" and others.

 


Diseases of Indoor Plants – HOW TO DETERMINE WHAT IS SICK? VIDEO

Diseases of indoor plants. How to determine what a flower is sick with

2 thoughts on “Pests and diseases of house flowers and indoor plants from A to Z”

  1. Vera SAMOILOVA. Rostov region

    In winter, soil flies periodically circle over plants.. Mosquito and fly repellents help fight them. I put smokeless spirals between the pots, turn on electric fumigators with plates, hanging sticky tapes. For the larvae to die, let the soil dry out completely between waterings. I also use biological preparations "Insectobacterin", "BioExpert from pests" (according to instructions).

  2. Kristina AVERKOVA, r. Ryazan

    Almost all flower growers have encountered small midges (mushroom mosquitoes), curly over potted flowers. They usually get into pots with soil or fly into windows from the street.. Getting rid of them is quite difficult.. I want to tell, How did I manage to deal with these annoying midges.
    Clivia is growing in a fairly large pot on my windowsill.. The air in the apartment is dry in winter, so at this time I water all the flowers more often. Probably, this created favorable conditions for mosquitoes. In the presence of heat and moisture, they bred so, что в почве даже невооруженным глазом стали заметны их мелкие белые личинки с черной головкой. И хотя я знаю, что грибные комарики не опасны для растений, I was not going to put up with their presence in flower pots.
    Sure, it would be best to transplant clivia into fresh soil. But I did not want to transplant it in the fall: в это время кливия закладывает цветоносы и ее лучше не тревожить. Поэтому решила не медлить, а сразу принять радикальные меры. Купила в магазине для садоводов препарат Мухоед. Inside the package were a bag of granules and a measuring spoon.. It took a 5 liter pot 3 spoons of the drug. I evenly distributed the granules over the surface of the soil., and then closed in depth 2-3 cm. Within three days the midges were gone.
    To prevent the appearance of mosquitoes, the soil in the pot was covered with a layer of fine expanded clay on top. After watering, it quickly becomes dry and does not allow insects to lay eggs..

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