CULTIVATION OF PHALENOPSIS – WATERING AND CARE, CONTENT AND TREATMENT OF DISEASES

 

Phalaenopsis is not the first season bathed in glory. And no wonder: epiphyte, under good conditions and easy care, can bloom all year round! Winter is a difficult period for most plants, including for orchids. How to water phalaenopsis now? What is the best way to do it? Why doesn't the pet bloom? We give answers to these and other questions.

IRRIGATION OF PHALENOPSIS

I water my phalaenopsis infrequently: in summer - about once a week, in winter - twice a month. In my opinion, here you need to take into account the microclimate at home. If the room is humid, you constantly spray the leaves of the plant, then watering may become less frequent.

I was convinced from personal experience, what to water the flower, if he stands in the sun, not even in winter. The wet substrate heats up quickly and the roots can literally "cook". Better to wait for cloudy weather.

Orchids love watering by dipping the pot in water.. Can't do this regularly, but at least once a month I practice. Noticed, that phalaenopsis like this bathing more in the morning. They seem to come to life before our eyes and keep "cheerful" for a long time.

I don't shower my favorites (I'm afraid of rot at the point of growth). But I wipe the leaves regularly. Sometimes I add a drop of succinic acid to the water for hygiene procedures.

© Author: Zarina GIRFANOVA, collector, r. Almetyevsk. Photo - author

PROBLEMS WITH PHALENOPSIS

Phalaenopsis does not bloom	If the plant looks painful at the same time, then the reason may be any oversight in leaving. The flower is strong and healthy? Likely, he lacks light. Orchids require 10-15 hours of daylight. Turn on the phytolamp in winter
Buds fall	Again, the plant may lack light.. This happens even with insufficient watering., nutrition, low air humidity, drafts, frequent turns in relation to the window
Sticky drops on leaves and peduncle	This is a natural phenomenon - this is how Phalaenopsis attracts pollinating insects.. Monitor the humidity, with dampness, a sooty mushroom often settles on the secretions
Roots protrude from drainage holes	There is nothing dangerous for a flower in this. But if you don't like the look, transplant the plant into a larger pot. Old cut, so as not to injure the roots
Brown spots on the leaves	Dry and tough is a burn. Shade phalaenopsis from direct sun. Soft spots, weeping? This is how fungal disease develops. The damaged plates will have to be removed, and treat the substrate and flower with any available fungicide

 

© Author: Tatiana Alekseenko

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PHALENOPYSIS – LANDING, GROWING AND CARE IN HOME CONDITIONS – TIPS AND SECRETS

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THE MIRACLE - "BUTTERFLIES" OF PHALENOPSIS ARE SURPRISING

By purchasing phalaenopsis, didn’t even imagine, that a beginner will bloom almost all year round. I think, that the conditions and care suited him.

NEW "HOUSING"

At home, I immediately transplanted the plant into a plastic transparent pot with holes in the bottom and walls for good air ventilation. Volume chose, to make the roots feel free. In high-moor peat substrate, crushed pine bark and sphagnum moss (by 30%) added charcoal and perlite (by 5%). As a drainage - expanded clay. Arbitrary mixture composition, especially with soil, humus, can destroy the root system. I also made a transplant for the prevention of diseases and pests.. Capacity and new soil treated with fungicide (according to instructions). Aerial roots did not fall asleep, and left the root collar just above the surface. In the new "apartment" the plant rested for a couple of days without watering.

PERFECT APPROACH

Put an orchid on the east window with a trellis, so that for about half a day the flower receives a bright diffused, no direct light illumination. From late autumn to early spring, I turn on, increasing daylight hours 2-3 o'clock, combined LED phytolamp: in the afternoon - the blue part of the spectrum (helps to build green mass) ; in the dark - red (stimulates flowering).

I maintain the temperature of the content in winter at a level +18-20 city., in the summer - on 5 city, higher. The same breakdown (in 5-6 city.) in the "day-night" mode stimulates the formation of peduncles. With the arrival of spring warmth, I take out fale-nopsis in the afternoon to fresh air, in partial shade.

To increase the humidity of the air, in winter and in summer heat I spray the space around the flower. I ventilate the room 3-4 once a day for half an hour, especially in winter, avoiding drafts and a sharp drop in temperature.

Watering phalaenopsis with soft water (preferably rain or thawed) several degrees warmer than air, to "wake up" sleeping kidneys. At every 3-4 I feed the irrigation with fertilizer for orchids: dissolve the mixture in a pan and put the pot in it for half an hour, then I water the roots or spray the leaf blades, leaving the axils of the lower leaves dry. When the plant has a dormant period (young leaves and peduncles do not appear), I postpone feeding. I renew, as soon as a new sheet is "cut through".

After wilting, I cut the peduncles to 0, 5 see above the sleeping kidney.

© Author: Victor ROSSIYSKY, r. Minsk

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PHALENOPSIS WITHOUT DISEASES AND PESTS

In case of violation of agricultural technology, there is a possibility of plant disease or the appearance of pests on it.

Pliers

Too dry air and temperatures above contribute to their appearance. +30 city. Finding ticks on the plant, wash them off with water 45-50 city, and treat with acaricides, given the development cycle. for example, With "Fitoverm" in case of severe infection, it is necessary to treat 3 times with an interval of 5 days, only then there will be no reappearance of pests. It is much more effective to use ovicidal acaricides, eg, Karamaito, Masai. Usually one treatment is sufficient. The exception is the hard-to-remove phalaenopsis tick, this will require a number of procedures

Shield, mealybug

Take off with a cotton swab, moistened with alcohol. The aboveground part of the orchid is treated with "Akta-Roy" - twice, at weekly intervals. Do not spill the substrate with a solution

Trips

Destroyed with any insecticidal preparation

PHALENOPSIS SICK? WE WILL TREAT!

Diseases pose a great danger to phalaenopsis, spots and rot. These orchids have a large vascular system., and the infection spreads quickly, therefore regular inspection is necessary. Each dubious speck must be treated in a timely manner with preparations based on copper or sulfur. ("Raw", "Oxyhom", "Abiga Peak"), cut off severely affected leaves. It is enough to lubricate mechanical damage with brilliant green, and sprinkle the slices with activated carbon powder.

WHEN PURCHASING a healthy plant and proper agricultural technology, the risk of disease is minimal.

© Author: Tatiana SOLOVEY, chairman of the club "Croton-, teacher of the course "Phytodesign and agricultural technology of indoor plants. r. Novosibirsk

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RESUSCITATION AND SALVATION OF PHALENOPSIS

What to do, if the orchid loses its attractive appearance, or even dies? Or maybe, you deliberately took a diseased plant to resuscitation in order to save and gain experience? In any case, you must first determine the cause of the deplorable state and then act. I will share it step by step, how do i do it.

1. Attentively (with a magnifying glass) I examine the leaves for pests. Signs, what they are: sticky spots, dotted bites, thinning of the plate, cobweb, moving individuals, etc.. I wash the flower under a warm shower with laundry soap, I treat with appropriate preparations (acaricides or insecticides) according to the instructions and isolate from the entire collection.
2. If no parasites are found, analyze conditions and care: were there any drafts, hypothermia, sunburn. Take away (cut off) leaves or part of a leaf with severe damage and observe, is the process going further.
3. I study the condition of the roots through the transparent walls of the pot. They are whole, elastic, green after watering? Everything is fine. When brown, slimy, the soil smells like rot - I take the plant out of the pot and cut off suspicious parts with a tool, rubbed with alcohol. I remove dry scales from the stem with tweezers, I cut off old peduncles. I clean the spots on the stem and neck to healthy tissue, dry and grease with fungicide ("Maxim", Fundazol).

5. If at least a few live roots remain after the revision, I plant phalaenopsis in a pot strictly according to the volume of the root ball. I make several holes in the walls and bottom with a soldering iron for aeration. I do not tamp the substrate from wet pine bark with the addition of pieces of charcoal when planting, leaving air pockets.

I put the orchid in a well-lit, place without direct rays. I water it a couple of days after planting. Then once every two weeks I soak in a solution of ammonia (2,5 ml of 1 l warm water); for root growth - in "Zircon" (4 drops on 1 l).

GROWING THE ROOTS OF PHALENOPSIS

If the plant has removed all the roots, I don't plant it in the ground right away. I treat it with a fungicide and dry it. I put it upside down (leaves underneath) in a transparent jar with warm water (adding a couple of activated charcoal tablets), which is not much, to avoid hitting the center of the outlet.

I place it in the warm (optimally +25 city.), well lit place. When at least a few roots grow to 4-6 cm, I transplant into the ground and take care of, like a separated baby.

I don’t do a greenhouse, since in its conditions, at the slightest suspicion of rot, the orchid will die in an instant.

© Author: Natalia KOSMINA, collector. Photo by the author

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HOW WINTER PHALENOPSIS

This is the most popular orchid in indoor floriculture., therefore, the editors receive the most questions about its cultivation. Here and now with the help of Olga SOKOLOVA, biologist, collector (r. Grodno), let's dwell on the main points of winter plant care.

LIGHTING

If the light is not enough, the lower leaves shrink and dry out, the plant stops growing and falls asleep. In this state, heat and dry air are dangerous for the orchid.. Then it is better to organize a forced rest period: limit watering, reduce the temperature of the content (to +12 city.) and increase humidity.

For full growth and flowering, phalaenopsis must be illuminated up to 10-12 hours a day. When choosing fixtures, remember, that under the influence of lamps with a predominance of the blue-violet spectrum, the orchid perfectly increases its green mass, and red-orange - actively blooms.

WATERING

This plant is moderately watered and is much more afraid of waterlogging.. than overdrying. Between waterings, the roots should dry out completely and acquire a pearly color. (wet - green).

AIR HUMIDITY

Phalaenopsis can tolerate short-term drying and low humidity. But it reacts with gratitude to its increase and spraying with distilled water of aerial roots.. But it is dangerous to irrigate the leaves: falling into sinuses, moisture can cause infection. Therefore, after contact with water, blot the foliage with a napkin.

FEEDING

Feed phalaenopsis only during the period of active growth, which is determined by the roots: tips red or green (depending on flower color), shiny and pointed. Fertilizer of low concentration, apply with every 2-3rd watering. If the orchid has slowed down growth and the root tips have shed, then no food will be absorbed.

BEGINNER'S CHOICE

Buying phalaenopsis, give preference to specimens in a dry substrate and with dried roots.

Leaves should be free of weeping dark or dry spots.. Mechanical injuries are not so dangerous.

Choose a plant with 4-5 large leaves. There should be no dried-up traces of oud on the flower arrow. – flax buds.

For transporting the novelty home in cold weather, ensure good packaging.. In the new conditions put – oh those orchid in quarantine. After adaptation, do not rush to transplant: if healthy roots and a substrate that has not turned into dust are visible through the transparent walls of the pot, then the transplant can be postponed until spring.

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HOME PHALENOPSIS – MY FEEDBACK

I liked the article by Olga Sokolova “How Phalaenopsis hibernates”. Short, but valuable advice. I want to add a little from my own experience..

The author mentions blue-violet and red-orange lamps for illumination, and I use a beige phytolamp: very pleasing to the eye, like daytime sunshine. With it, plants develop harmoniously.

For large and healthy phalaenopsis, I prefer to arrange a dormant period in winter - from mid-November to mid-February. And only weak or recently purchased specimens I put under additional lighting.

Regarding transplanting a plant from a store, I want to add, what if the roots look healthy, and the substrate - not decomposed, then you can't transplant, but be sure to carefully check for the presence of a peat or moss cup inside the root ball. And if there is such, urgently remove and transplant phalaenopsis. Otherwise, at a novice grower until spring, he, likely, perish. If the rest of the bark in the pot was good, it needs to be used, adding some fresh, - it will help adaptation.

CONNECT WITH NATURE

And after Olga's article, I thought about the life cycle of these plants in their natural habitat.

Once on TV they showed the Amazon River basin at the time of flowering of orchids.. On both sides of it, peduncles down towards the water, the brushes strewn with flowers hung down - an unforgettable sight.! And because of that, I have some questions.. How biological processes change during the year in phalaenopsis living in natural conditions? Do they have a rest period, albeit not as pronounced, like cattley, dendrobiumov and others? After all, knowing the answers, can you better keep these orchids.

Comparing over several years the content of phalaenopsis with and without a dormant period (with illumination), I came to the conclusion: rest is better. The plant becomes more beautiful and, if I may say so, denser.

© Author: Elena ZAKHARIKOVA. Ryazan region.

SPECIALIST COMMENT

Climate, in which phalaenopsis grows, rarely changes. No sudden temperature changes, chilled, which contributes to continuous growth. And the day is always equal to the night, therefore, the epiphytic plant receives a lot of light and actively develops without a dormant period. And in the house it is difficult to create conditions, close to natural. Therefore, the organization of a forced rest for an orchid in the most unfavorable time of the year is fully justified..

Regarding the transplantation of the purchased plant, if peat or moss is found in the root ball, you are right, Helen. Also, instead of them, under the base you can find a sponge (foam rubber), which dries out for a long time after watering, and the roots start to rot.

© Author: Olga SOKOLOVA, biologist, collector.

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BATHING PHALENOPSIS

Water procedures for this orchid cause a lot of controversy among flower growers.. Somebody think, that bathing is more harmful, what will benefit. I have been organizing my “bath day” collection periodically for more than one year and I see excellent results.. the main thing, take into account the nuances.

IMPORTANT

At the time of bathing, the soil in the pot is dry, gray roots. That is the time to water.

The pot must have drainage holes..

Water temperature - pleasant for the hands, warm.

SHOWER FOR PHALENOPSIS IN TWO STAGES

1. I wash the leaves, stems, peduncles (plates can be gently rubbed by hand, sometimes I use a soft sponge). Spill the soil abundantly and turn off the water, letting the excess run out of the pot. Leaving plants in the bathroom, closing the door, so that there is no draft, and I go to wash the windows, window sills and pallets (with soap).
2. I return to the orchids and again spill the soil, I water the leaves. I turn off the shower again. I breed fertilizer in a watering can and water the specimens that do not bloom at this time with a solution. Then I lift each pot and tilt it like this, so that all excess water flows out of the container and leaf axils. I put the flowerpots on clean dry (!) pallets and take them to the windowsill.
3. Summer, after returning the plants to the windowsill, need to follow, so that there is no direct scorching sun, and at any time of the year - a draft (until the orchids are completely dry).

© Author: Anna GRIDINA, Head of the community Mr. Indoor floriculture», Krasnodar region. Photo by the author

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PHALENOPYSIS: WHAT AFFECTS FLOWERING

I often get advice., that you can’t feed phalaenopsis during flowering. Fertilizers can only be applied during the dormant period.. Otherwise, nutrition speeds up all processes, and the orchids are blooming fast. I would like to know the opinion of the authors of the DC.

© Author: Raisa PARMUZINA, d Asbestos

I feed my phalaenopsis, only when they pick up flower stalks and buds. I use Bona Forte fertilizers: series "Health" and "Beauty", spray tonic "Vitamins + succinic acid". And 1 – 2 once a month I wipe the leaf blades with a solution of "Yantarin" (5 ml of 1 l of water). With this diet, orchids form several flower stalks., grow roots well.

I keep plants in a closed system, i.e. in pots without holes. With this method of growing, I water phalaenopsis a couple of times a month., in summer - about once a week, And definitely not in the sun. (even in winter), otherwise the roots will overheat.

In flowering specimens, I cut off the flower stalks and start feeding the plants., until they bloom.

THERE WAS A CASE

About premature fall of flowers I want to say, that it can happen for various reasons. for example, it happened to me, when I spilled the soil near the flowering phalaenopsis "Fitosporin". true, there was a change in temperature, That's why, possibly, and the cold contributed to this phenomenon. However, I don't experiment anymore., and orchids during flowering do not process or feed anything.

DO NOT REPEAT THE MISTAKE

Phalaenopsis flowers can also fall off due to the appearance of pests on it.. I have, eg, another orchid bought in the fall turned out to be with a “surprise” Thrips is a parasite, which feeds on plant sap, quickly spread throughout the collection. I didn't pay attention right away., although visible damage was already: gray coating, ugly puncture points on young leaves and peduncles (individuals themselves are very difficult to detect). Good, that I always have insecticide on hand. Two treatments and - the enemy is defeated. But such a situation could not be, if I could withstand a newcomer in quarantine.

© Author: Zarina GIRFANOVA, collector. r. Almetyevsk. Photo by the author

SPECIALIST COMMENT

To understand, to feed phalaenopsis or not, I advise you to look at the roots.

If the orchid has slowed down growth and the root tips are sheathed, means, the plant "sleeps" and cannot absorb food.

When they are actively growing (red or green, depending on flower color), shiny and pointed - top dressing will benefit.

Good, if you alternate once a 2 weeks ready-made mineral complexes with organic matter (eg, orchid fertilizer Pokon: 0, 5 d on 1 l of water and mullein infusion: 1 ч.л.. on 1 l). For spraying on the leaf, the solutions are diluted twice.

© Author: Tatiana SOLOVEY, chairman of the Croton club, r. Novosibirsk

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PHALENOPYSIS – OBSERVE AND ACT

blooming orchids (mainly phalaenopsis and its hybrids) take pride of place on my windowsill. And at the beginning of this year, the neighbor Tamara Mikhailovna, knowing my love for flowers, sent another copy, said, that he never bloomed with her and she does not know, how to take care of it. However, I think, that it's not that hard, and I am happy to share my experience of keeping tropical beauties.

WHY DOESN'T FLOWER

A novice flower grew in a small transparent pot. And the first, what did i pay attention to, - root system. It must be well developed., adhere tightly to the walls of the container. Everything was wrong here. I think, this is the main reason, why phalaenopsis did not bloom.

Even for flowering, the plant needs bright diffused lighting.. Therefore, in winter, I periodically turn on a lamp over orchids, and in spring and summer I shade from direct sun, so that there are no burns on leaves and flowers.

WATERING AND FEEDING OF PHALENOPSIS

To water an orchid or not, defined in several ways.

1. If there is condensation on the walls of the pot, I don't water.
2. According to the weight of the flowerpot. Dry soil - light. I don't use this method when, if you recently transplanted an orchid, since the first month the bark does not immediately swell and retains water less.
3. Root color. They are bright green? Means, enough moisture. Turned pale, even became a little silvery? It's time to moisturize.

Watering plants by immersion. I pour into a bowl 1/4 part of the water at room temperature and let it stand for a day. Then I soak pots of orchids in it for 30 minutes. Then I return to the original place. I also water during flowering., but with extreme caution, and be sure to tie up the peduncle.

I feed my pets all the time., only in microdoses: with every watering 1 l add water 1 -2 fertilizer drops for orchids (alternate different).

If I see, something is wrong with the plant (withered, drooping leaves, etc.), then instead of water with food I put it on 15 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

PHALENOPSIS TRANSPLANTATION

I transplant phalaenopsis once a year 3-4 of the year. And although they do not really like this procedure, moments like this fit, what needs to be done, eg, soil condition deteriorated, the flower is not feeling well.

I do not water the plant on the day of the transplant.. And for the whole next week I just spray the surface of the bark, without getting water into the "socket", so as not to provoke the development of infection. In the first watering, I immerse the pot for minutes 40.

When the lower leaves die off over time and the stem lengthens, I deepen it when transplanting. Remove dry leaves, to awaken dormant roots.

© Author: Nadezhda STEPANOVA, Voronezh region. Photo by the author

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PHALENOPSIS VIDEO CARE