PREPARING PLANTS FOR THE REST PERIOD (WINTER)

Indoor flowers in the fall ask for a well-deserved rest. It is important for some pets to help during this period.. Their further development depends on our simple steps to take care of them..

PERIOD OF REST AT AHIMENES

it happens, that the Ahimenes don't go on vacation at the right time. for example, modern varieties, which have a long growing season. Or the problem may be due to late germination of the rhizome.. It is necessary to bring the usual cycles back to normal. I am not a supporter of radical measures - cutting the stem and forcibly sending the rhizomes to rest. Almost all issues can be resolved by adjusting irrigation (reduce gradually) or temperature conditions during rest (+5-10 city.).

When the plant begins to dry out gradually, dig up the rhizomes, dry and store in the refrigerator until February, so that they don't sprout ahead of time.

IN A NORMAL RHYTHM

Ahimenez himself should "ask" to rest: lower leaves actively dry, growth stops, buds are not formed. Then cut off the aerial part with scissors and after a while remove the rhizomes from the pot. You can plant them in fresh soil and, without watering, put to rest in a cool place, without covering. They must winter in absolutely dry ground., since watering is able to provoke early growth.

OR store rhizomes, wrapped in a napkin and packed in a zip bag, in the refrigerator door, periodically inspecting for rot.

© Author: Lilia MALTSEVA, agrochemist, r. Novy Oskol

PERIOD OF REST OF THE HIPPEASTRUM

I send plants to rest gradually, giving time for the natural drying of the leaves and the transfer of nutrients from them to the bulb. I stop watering. If you planted hippeastrum for the summer in open ground, then I dig it up and keep it in a dry, light place until the green mass completely dies. I put plants in pots "on a side".

After the leaves are dry, digging out the bulbs (I don’t cut the roots, but I shorten them only after wintering, before planting in the ground) and wrap each one in paper or put it in a bag with vermiculite. Store in a cool place. I used to put them in the refrigerator, but then it is necessary to check every month - due to possible condensation, rot develops.

It is safer to store bulbs wrapped in newspaper in an insulated loggia.

Minimum rest time - 2 months. They can be woken up at the end of December. But I do it much later.. Rest for my hippos ends in spring.

This year I did not manage to plant bulbs in open ground, since June was cool, and then immediately the heat, the bulbs would not have had time to take root. But the plants in pots delighted with flowering all summer - and at home, and at the dacha.

© Author: Maria MARCHENOK. r. Khabarovsk Photo by Irina Opashnyuk

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CACTUS REST AND CARE

Most citrus fruits need a rest period. And if in countries, where is "summer all year round", he may be hidden, then in more northern regions hibernation of plants is noticeable. From autumn to spring, they lack light, therefore they either grow very slowly (a new sheet appears every 1 -2 months), or don't grow at all. However, care is still needed: as in preparation for a vacation, and during the wintering period.

FEEDING

Already in August, you need to reduce the feeding of citrus fruits, and specimens sleeping until spring do not feed at all. You can use fertilizers with a high potassium content at the end of the season. This element contributes to the maturation of growths and the strengthening of the tree as a whole..

WATERING

Since citrus fruits will be cool to rest, with a decrease in temperature, the need for plants in moisture decreases. therefore, so that the roots have enough air, the rule is: better to underfill, what to pour. The soil should practically dry out between waterings., otherwise, with excess moisture, the roots can rot. It is especially important not to allow the earthen coma to cool when placing plants on window sills.. For insulation, you can put pieces of foam under the pots.

© Author: Alexander TSITTEL. collector, r. Almaty.

REST PERIOD FOR CACTUSES AND CARE AT THIS TIME

In temperate latitudes in winter, most cactus lovers do not have the opportunity to provide their plants with sufficient lighting.. In the absence of full sunlight, the stems are deformed, stretch out, thorns become smaller, etc.. Therefore, it is important to create conditions for cacti for forced rest.. The entry of many plants into the dormant period begins under the influence of a decrease in daylight hours.

STAGES OF PREPARING CACTUSES FOR THE REST PERIOD

On the warm days of September, it is useful to carry out preventive treatments of cacti from pests (pliers, worms).

Then gradually reduce the frequency of watering: enough 1-2 once a month. Due to the slowing down of physiological processes, excess water in a cool substrate can lead to fungal infections of the root system.

It is useful to ventilate the plants before the dormant period., this increases resistance to low positive temperatures, which we create during the wintering period. This process can be called pre-hardening.. As a result, cacti become more cold-resistant..

WE CREATE CACTUSES TO COLD

Before the start of hardening, the plants must end their growth. The first phase of hardening can be carried out in late September or early October, when daytime and nighttime temperatures are set at around +10 city, or slightly below. Naturally, at such temperatures, the substrate must be dry. The second phase is held in October, reducing the temperature to +4 city, or even before 0. After that, the plants can be safely hibernated in November at temperatures 0-+10 city.

Anatoly MIKHALTSOV, biologist, r. Omsk

In autumn, it is advisable to keep cacti as long as possible in cool conditions and daily temperature drops - as long as the weather permits. In dry soil, most species of the family can withstand up to 0 city, (some - and below, but it's better not to risk it). Take only melocactus into your house, discocactus, astrophytums (prone to reddening in the cold) and other relatively thermophilic species, as well as grafted specimens.

Focusing on the weather forecast, guess the time for the last watering of the season: if expected within 3-4 consecutive days the daytime temperature is about + 15 city, and sunny, cacti can be sprinkled with clean water at room temperature.

It is better to postpone the transplant of even cacti that have grown over the summer until spring or at least until February. Species blooming in autumn (eg, ario-corpus) do not change conditions of detention.

© Author: Natalia GUBANOVA, collector

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THE PERIOD OF REST AT THE VIOLET, COLLEUS, FICUS, PHALENOPSIS

In plants, like human, have their own tastes, needs, desires. I didn't understand it right away, but now I can share my observations. I'll tell you about them using the example of violets, koleusa, ficus, hippeastrum, phalaenopsis, who have different preferences.

REST PERIOD

Not necessary for all plants.

for example, violets and phalaenopsis can bloom all year round. However, the latter should also be allowed to rest.. At this time, the orchid is watered every other time (soaked once a week, now - every two) and put away in a cooler, bright place.

Hippeastrum needs rest. The earth ball is moistened occasionally (the dug out bulbs are stored in a dry place), the plant is placed in a cooler place (the north window will do too, and basement).

PRIMING

The state and appearance of the plant will depend on its mechanical composition - whether it receives all the substances necessary for nutrition or not. Substrate for thin delicate roots of violet and coleus should be air- and permeable. Ficus and hippeastrum have stronger roots, respectively, the soil needs more dense. Phalaenopsis has thickened, but gentle, and pine bark is suitable for their growth, moss. After soaking, such a substrate gradually releases moisture..

WATERING

It depends on the composition of the soil, temperature and humidity in the room, lighting, the general condition of the plant. They are individual for each grower..

If the plant is on a wick or capillary mat, then it gets so much water, how much does he need. If you regulate watering yourself, then the optimal signal for irrigation is drying out of the topsoil.

Phalaenopsis needs to focus on the color of the roots: silver gray - soak, green - waiting. Waiting, while those, what's in the pot, change color, can be sprayed with light aerial roots. Condensate in a flowerpot? Occasional smearing.

LIGHTING

All of the above plants will not tolerate the scorching sun. But when scattered, they will feel good. The best option is the west or east side. North is suitable for "sleeping" hippeastrum.

Lighting problems will be visible on the violet: with its lack, the leaf petiole is stretched and flowering is weak, in excess, on the contrary, petiole shortens. If there is less daylight 12 hours, Phalaenopsis will begin to drop buds, never revealed.

WATER TREATMENTS

You can choose to spray the plants, shower or wipe with a damp cloth, but do not forget about their features. for example, water procedures (whatever) Coleus won't like. It is better to wash the violet under the tap (each sheet separately), let dry and re-carry to place.

Hippeastrum and ficus will not give up the shower. Only then is it better to let them dry, wipe the leaves with a napkin, to avoid water stains. For Phalaenopsis, taking a shower should be combined with soaking. Then blot the growth point with a cotton pad or blow out the accumulation of water. Let the plant dry, wipe the leaves with a napkin.

FERTILIZERS

Now there is a sufficient variety of all kinds of organo-mineral mixtures for plants on sale.. Dosage, specified in instructions, should be regulated according to the principle “better less, yes more often ". During the dormant period, they do not feed.

© Author: Galina SEMYONOVA, Altai region. Photo by the author

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PERIOD OF REST OF ROOM FLOWERS – IN UNISON WITH NATURE. WHAT ELSE DO YOU NEED TO KNOW?

All indoor plants, habitual inhabitants of our home windowsills, came to us from nature – from the rainforest, deserts, from mountain slopes and sea coasts.

In the natural habitat of plants, the seasons change, air humidity changes, daylight hours. And the cycles of life are subject to these changes: plants grow foliage, getting ready to bloom, open buds, rest and gain strength.

That is, they are present in their lives as periods of active growth., so is the rest time, which is very important for all representatives of the flora and requires certain environmental conditions.

In slow motion

Indoor plants, which originated from the rainforests of South America and Asia, no pronounced rest period. Just like at home, dieffenbachia, monstera, dracena, aglaonema, allocation, syngonium, ficus and scindapsus continue to grow in winter, albeit a little slower. However, in their natural habitat, air humidity is much higher., than in our houses. And this difference is especially significant in the autumn-winter period.: it rains in the homeland of indoor tropi-kants, while hot dry air blows over the windowsill, battery powered. therefore, despite the fact that these plants do not seem to need special wintering conditions, it is still necessary to create a certain comfort for them.

The optimum temperature for tropical plants in winter is 18-20 °. With a decrease in the length of daylight hours, shoots may begin to stretch, internodes elongate. Therefore the best solution – additional illumination for several hours in the morning and evening. To highlight indoor plants at home, they are fixed above them at a certain height (for shade-loving – 55-60 cm, for light-loving – 20-25 cm) phytolamp or ordinary fluorescent lamp. Artificial light must hit the plants at a 90 ° angle, so that flowers do not have to reach out to its source.

Top dressing continues to be given only to those plants, that bloom or continue to grow actively. But it is recommended to use only complex mineral fertilizers.. Organic fertilizers with a high nitrogen content are excluded.

A common cause of plant death in winter – excess watering. Since the ambient temperature is higher, than soil temperature, roots slow down. Therefore, watering should be significantly reduced. Their frequency should be like this, so that the topsoil has time to dry out. For watering and spraying, use only settled water at room temperature or slightly warmer.

Heating devices dry the air in the house, and dried leaf tips signal the need to increase humidity. Spraying gives only a short-term effect, it is better to place wide cups of water between flower pots. Some plants can be placed on wet sand trays, expanded clay or sphagnum moss. Water containers will help to make the air more humid., suspended above the battery, but the best solution – regular use of a household humidifier.

If plants overwinter on a windowsill, it is important to take care of, so that their roots do not suffer from hypothermia. Heat insulating material can be placed under the pots, Styrofoam, wood or plywood boards.

IN A LIGHT SLEEP

Houseplants, who came to us from temperate latitudes and subtropics, have more pronounced development cycles. And although most of them do not shed their leaves in winter, the growth process slows down significantly. The period of relative rest is characteristic of fuchsia, gibiskusa, many types of begonias, tradescantia, oleander citrus.

To bring the conditions of their wintering closer to natural, required a reduced ambient temperature of 15-16 °. Humidity must be high, but since not all plants are shown spraying, it is better to maintain it at the required level in other ways – eg, with placed water trays and humidifiers.

Watering during the period of relative dormancy is moderate, the top layer of the earth must have time to dry out.

Plants that are evergreen or partially shedding leaves must remain in the light, albeit at a lower temperature. Plants are also kept in bright rooms., blooming in winter.

Flowers, completely shedding leaves, can be placed at rest in dark or semi-dark rooms. Heavily pruned plants are also sent to darker places..

For the inhabitants of the desert of succulents and cacti, wintering in a cool, but on a sunny windowsill. With a lack of lighting, succulents stretch, and cacti lose their rich color. Watering should be sparse and weak, only slightly wetting the soil.

In deep sleep

Of the common indoor plants, some types of orchids need complete rest. (tunia, dendrobiums, pleione), gloxinia, ahimenes, caladium, hippeastrum.

Bulbous or tuberous plants can be dug out of the soil for a dormant period, put in a paper bag and send for the winter in a cool place, where the temperature is kept at 9-15 °. But you can just put the plant pot in a cold dark room.. Do it, when the bulb stops developing, and all terrestrial shoots die off. Stems and leaves are carefully removed with disinfected scissors.

If the tuber or bulb will sleep in a pot, then the soil substrate will have to be moistened from time to time, so that it does not dry out completely. At the end of wintering, the pot is placed in a bright place and watered as usual., gradually increasing the amount of water to normal.

Orchids require cooler conditions for winter sleep (6-10°) and well lit place – with a lot of reflected sunlight, but without direct rays. When leaves fall on the plant, watering reduces, only protecting the soil in the pot from drying out completely.

PERIOD OF REST OF THE HIPPEASTRUM

By the end of the growing season, the leaves and stems of the hippeastrum die off, all processes in the bulb slow down, and the plant needs complete rest, the duration of which is approximately 10 weeks.

Foliage needs to be removed, and cover the pot with a plastic bag with holes and put in a dark place, where the air temperature is kept at 12-15 °. Complete drying out of the earthen coma cannot be allowed. With the onset of spring, the bulbs are transplanted into a new soil substrate.. There must be a drainage hole at the bottom of the container. Desirable, so that the height of the pot is approximately equal to its diameter. The white succulent roots of the hippeastrum can be trimmed, leaving 5-7 cm. Before planting, it is advisable to hold the bulb in a dark solution of potassium permanganate. When planting between the wall of the pot and the bulb, there should be 2-3 cm, and the bulb itself is buried in the soil for no more than 2/3 heights (otherwise it can rot).

After transplantation, the hippeastrum needs good lighting. Suitable place on the window, south-facing (the plant is not afraid of the direct sun). Watering should be weak at first. When the flower arrow grows on 5-10 cm, it is amplified. Best to water in a pallet, so as not to wet the onion. Top dressing can be started with the emergence of sprouts.

THE PERIOD OF REST AT DRACENA

In winter, the temperature for dracaena should be moderate., but not lower than 12-15 °. Curling leaves indicate that, that the plant is freezing.

Watering must be reduced to such a frequency, so that the top layer of soil in the pot dries up to 5-6 cm, but the earthen lump in the depths did not dry out completely. If there is not enough moisture, then the tips of the dracaena leaves will droop. Watering is recommended along the edge of the pot., being careful not to soak the base of the stem.

In dracaena, sometimes the lower leaves turn yellow and fall.

This is a natural process. But if the edges of the foliage turn brown, it is possible, the plant stands in a draft or suffers from too dry air Since dracaena does not require a lot of light in winter, then the pot can be placed against the wall opposite the window. In such conditions, the plant has enough lighting and is not annoyed by hot dry air., battery powered.

Dracaena needs frequent spraying, and in winter it will be useful for her to (about once a week) shower.

But it is also important, so that the water falls only on the leaves, not on the ground.

In winter, it is enough to feed the plant once a month with complex fertilizer.. A transplant during this period is not recommended, but if necessary, you can still carefully transfer the dracaena to another planting container.

REST WITH CACTUS

For most cacti (except epiphytic) cold wintering required. The dormant period implies a lower air temperature for them. (0-15°, depending on the type), very little or no watering and dry air.

It is easiest to create such conditions in a room., fencing off the window sill with cacti with glass or film. In winter, the assimilation and redistribution of substances takes place in plant tissues, accumulated over the summer, and there is also preparation for flowering.

Some Mammillaria and Parodies bloom in February-March, in March-April – rebuts and ailosters. It is very important not to rush to water at this time., replacing its spraying with distilled or melt water. With strong moisture, children begin to develop instead of flowers.. Only those specimens can be slightly watered, whose buds have reached at least 1 cm long. A representative of the cactus family preparing for flowering reacts more negatively to the rearrangement, than many other indoor crops. Therefore, it is better to admire a flowering specimen without touching it with your hands., so as not to turn the pot the other way towards the light.

© Author: Nina Vershinina

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THE PERIOD OF REST OF THE SPIRAL ALBUKA

Despite, what in nature ndormant period of albuca spiral (Albuca spiralis) falls in the summer, in room conditions, it is better to move it to winter time, when it's easier to provide cool content. Backlighting is optional in this case.

Around August-September, the plant blooms and pleases with bell-shaped flowers for up to a month. One bulb is capable of forming several peduncles alternately. Cut them off, if seeds are not needed, immediately after the loss of decoration. From the end of October, begin to gradually reduce watering and at the same time lower the temperature of the content to +15-10 city, (not less, otherwise the roots will lose their ability to absorb water, and the bulb will rot). The tips of the leaves will begin to brown and dry out, the sheet itself will keep the spirals only at the tips. Full rest period - stress for the plant, therefore partial preservation of leaves and roots is fine.

IMPORTANT POINTS

Water the plant with warm, settled water after 2-3 days after the root ball dries. Watering can be increased only during flowering.. In winter, from complete drying of the soil to the next moistening, 5 days.

It is not advisable to water from above, stagnant moisture in the leaf axils and in the scales of the bulb leads to decay. Drain the excess from the pallet after the substrate is completely impregnated.. The plant does not need spraying.

If the bulb is rotten, do not rush to throw it away. Often in the soggy pulp, you can feel tiny hard onions from 2 to 5 mm. After washing in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, they easily take root in the greenhouse.

© Author: Tatiana SOLOVEY, chairman of the Croton club, teacher of the course "Phytodesign and agricultural technology of indoor plants", r. Novosibirsk

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WHAT HOUSE FLOWERS AND ROOM PLANTS WHAT TEMPERATURE NEEDED IN WINTER, IN THE PERIOD OF REST?

Autumn-winter is a difficult stage in the life cycle of indoor plants. How to deal with a lack of light and low humidity during this period, we told in previous issues. It's time to pay attention to the temperature of keeping pets. The problem is, that in a city apartment, the possibilities of its regulation are limited. Let's look for a way out of a difficult situation together.

Conventionally, all indoor plants in relation to the "winter" temperature can be divided into three groups.

1 GROUP

Most of the most popular indoor crops: palm, bromeliads, dracaena, marantovye, ficuses, yucca, nolins, crotons, coffee, most aroid and gesnerian, many ferns (subject to high humidity).

Almost painlessly, they pass the autumn-winter season without the need to lower the temperature of the content. However, under indoor conditions, its decrease in winter to +18-20 city, will be useful.

2 GROUP

There are two subgroups: moderate coolness (+16-18 city.) necessary for many orchid, strelicii, eternal, ardizii; cold wintering (+8-10 city, and even lower) - almost all cacti and other succulents, oleander, camellias, myrtle, orchids: odontoglossumu, whole, masdevallier, some types of cymbidium.

Feel satisfactory at normal temperatures, but their decoration is fully revealed only after more or less prolonged maintenance at low temperatures. That is, the flowering of these plants (for many it is the main decorative element) possible only after cold wintering. For plants of this group, it is necessary to provide for placement with the possibility of a local decrease in temperature., eg, by isolating the window sill from the warm room.

3 GROUP

Miniature roses, chrysanthemums, campanula bells, primroses, ragwort (sene-cio), cineraria, lavender, rosemary.

Them difficult, and it is often almost impossible to keep at room temperature in winter. These are mostly light-loving plants., originating from temperate latitudes with real winter, which need seasonal temperature fluctuations and adequate rest for normal growth. The winter temperature optimum for this group is +6-8 city, (like in a loggia), plus good lighting.

ROLE OF LIGHT…

Whichever group the plant belongs to, with a lack of light in winter and in the absence of artificial lighting, it is advisable to send him to rest. Since growth in low light is harmful even for members of the first group. Elongated thin shoots of plants easily infect diseases and pests, the natural habit of the plant is disturbed, it weakens.

…AND HUMIDITY

In the natural habitats of many indoor plants, the dormant period is often due precisely to the dry period., not temperature and light, as in our latitudes. therefore, since september, watering is gradually limited. Closer to winter, the moisture rate is brought to the minimum required level. And cacti and many other succulents are not watered in winter.. In addition, moisture deficiency at low temperatures is often an additional condition for the setting and formation of flower buds..

BLOWERING IN WINTER

A number of indoor plants have an inverted life cycle - they bloom in winter, and in summer they are at rest. for example, cyclamen, whose vegetation begins in autumn. However, he, and blooming in the autumn-winter period of slum-berger,Ripsalidopsis required at this time moderate fever (not higher +18-20 city.) and neat watering.

© Author: Alexander CYMBAL. collector, r. Tolyatti

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WINTER OF ORCHIDS AND OTHER EPIPHYTS

Most hybrid orchids are long-day plants, therefore, in autumn and winter, they have a hard time. To help flowers, take my advice.

Many types of epiphytes bloom in autumn. If the buds have already opened, then the reduction in daylight hours will not affect them. But if the day got shorter, and the peduncle is still developing, it is imperative to supplement the plant! I use fluorescent lamps or phytolamps.

Orchids, which bloomed by autumn, I rarely water: their water consumption is closely related to the amount of light, received per day. It's important to follow this rule., to avoid root rot.

Reducing moisture, we put the plants into a dormant state, in which they stop growing. Therefore, such orchids cannot be fertilized and sprayed with growth stimulants.! If autumn and winter are sunny, then on the southern windowsills my beauties continue to develop slowly, but I don’t feed them either.

Working radiators do not create the best atmosphere for epiphytes. Seemingly, you just need to spray them more often and increase watering. However, I am careful in these matters.: remember, that with a short daylight hours, orchids cannot absorb water in full.

Another unfavorable factor in the autumn-winter period is a cold window sill.. Therefore, it is better to insert a pot with an orchid into a plastic planter., with a special elevation at the bottom.

For "sleeping" specimens, lowering the temperature is required. But it does not mean, that her indicators are the same for everyone. Only for cim-bidiums can the degree be lowered to +5, for all other hybrid orchids, the limit is +15 “FROM.

Epiphytes are afraid of drafts, therefore, when airing, I always remove flowers from windowsills. If your window frames are old, be sure to glue them for the winter. And you will be warmer, and orchids!

© Author: Elena SHUSTIKOVA, Orchid collector

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CONDITIONS FOR WINTERING PLANTS – REMINDER

PLANTS	CONTENT TEMPERATURE (CITY.) AND LIGHTING
Code, syngonium, monstera, philodendron, agla- onema, scindapsus, spathiphyllum, kalateya, антури­ум, bromeliads, begonias: whip-like, толстосте­бельные, bushy, reed, rhizome	moderate indoor, need additional lighting. In the absence of light -+16-18
Oleander, laurel, myrtle, rosemary, choleonema, ha- melacium	+8-15 (not less +5), backlighting is desirable. Winter rest is mandatory
Ficuses, dracaena, palm trees: date Robelena, ho- wind, karyota, hamedorea	+ 16-18, preferably backlit; at room temperature - be sure to light up
Fig, Garnet, lagerstremia, ginkgo, maple for- invisible	+ 1-5, can be in the dark. Deciduous plants
Olive	+5-15, preferably backlit. For flowering, you must endure at least 2 months at temperatures below +10
Fuchsia	+ 10-12, at +5-7 - can be in the dark
Citrus crops	+ 14-16, preferably backlit. Without a cool wintering, they usually live no more than 3-4 years old
No way	+ 12-16, desired backlight. With a lack of light in the heat, it often gets sick with powdery mildew
Bell, palm trees: hamerops, washingtonia	+5-10. Winter rest is mandatory
Palm trees: trachycarpus, date Canary, Livisto- on,rapeseed	+ 12-16, preferably backlit; at room - backlight is required
Pelargonium,abutilon	+ 12-15; at room - backlight is desirable
Bugenville	+5-10; at +15-18 - backlit
Ever-flowering begonia	+15-20 - backlit; with a lack of light – + 12-15
Begonias Elatior, Lorrain	+20-22 - in the afternoon, +12-15 - at night, need backlight
Gerbera	+ 15-20 - in the afternoon, +12-15 - at night, need backlight
Column, eschinantus	room, preferably backlit; some varieties for flowering - for December-January +16
Chrysanthemum	at +3-8 - can be in the dark; +15 - backlit; rooted cuttings - +18
Passiflora	+16-18 - backlit. For some species, cool (+5-10) wintering
Tsikas	+12-17 - backlit

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CARE DURING REST

Stress from dry air and lack of light, usually, weakens plants. Their immunity decreases, which means, pets become easy prey for pests, more susceptible to disease. How to help your pets survive the difficult autumn-winter period?

PREPARATIONS OF DYAL FOR PROCESSING ROOM FLOWERS DURING THE REST PERIOD

A drug, means	How to use	Features of the
Delcid (zoopreparation for ticks, lice, fleas)	I dilute the ampoule in 500-700 ml of water and spray the plants (leaves - on both sides), wipe the windowsill. One treatment is enough for 3 months, to forget about the spider mite, white- wing, scale insects and other pests. The drug has proven itself well for phalaenopsis, ficuses, indoor roses, palm trees. I use it on all plants of the collection	Safe for animals and humans, practically odorless, but there is an annoying effect - the nose and mouth must be covered with a handkerchief
EM plate	I divide the plate into 3 parts and put one by one at the edge of the pot with a weakened plant. When it gets into a moist soil environment, it works as an immunostimulant, anti-stress. If another flower moans, I rearrange the plate to him in the flowerpot	Plate life - 10 years old. Radiation from it suppresses pathogens, rot, stimulates growth, increases biomass by 30-70%. The leaves become large and rich green
Liquid chlorophyll	Once a month 1 ч.л.. I add concentrate to 2 l of water for irrigation. Or 1 I dissolve the capsule into the floor- liter jar, then 50 I dilute ml of the resulting solution in a watering can (2 l)	Chlorophyll in soil breaks down into constituents, which have everything you need to build new molecules inside the plant
Nettle extract	10 drops on 2 l of water. I water once a month in autumn and winter	Nettle - a storehouse of vitamins, organic acids, tannins and phytoncides. Supports the root system, stimulates growth, strengthens the stems, boosts immunity, improves soil quality

 

ON A NOTE

Don't forget about old,time-tested drugs: B vitamins, aloe juice, NV-SHK-Epin, "Zircon", "Fero-vit". "Domotsvet", "Citovit", "Eco-foot", "Simplant". They will also support plants well during a difficult period..

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INDOOR FLOWERS FOR THE WINTER

"Room" – we talk about flowers out of habit, without hesitation, that our home is for most of them – foreign environment. And if in the summer they almost do not feel the difference with their native nature, the winter gives them a lot of trouble. And us too, if you do not follow the rules for keeping plants in the dormant period.

WARM YARD

I have a plot, uneven – cascades down from the house. Because of this, we made separate plots for the garden, berry growers, for relax, pool. There are many conifers on the site: pine tree with a three-story house, blue firs, wedding, 10 juniper varieties, mountain pine, but I took the main place for flowers. The whole courtyard under the pine tree is filled with potted flowers., where they bloom in partial shade all summer. it 6 large hibiscus of various colors, fuchsias, geraniums, balsams, hydrangeas, in hanging baskets – korean chrysanthemums, oxalis, begonias, etc..

All summer I feed them once a week., and every evening I water with sprinkling. All of them are in containers., since the platform under the pine is lined with natural stone. With the onset of cold weather, I make a list of all my indoor plants and write the temperature of their winter content against each name..

Then those plants, which hibernate at temperatures 15 to 25 degrees and above, I bring it into the room and put it on the north side: dieffenbachia, violets, philodendrons, anthuriums, I also have orchids. I put hibiscus on the southern windows, ficuses, arrowroot, code.

However, from the dry hot air of the batteries and in the absence of prolonged lighting, the plants shed their leaves and acclimatize in the house for almost a month.. At this time, I spray them regularly., fertilize once a month, follow the watering. I water hibiscus the most., they are terrible bastards, almost every other day you have to drink. I noticed, that plants respond well to foliar preparations. Blooming increases, the leaves are turning green again, stop falling off.

Other plants, winter maintenance of which requires temperatures within 5-15 degrees, I transfer to my greenhouse with a polycarbonate coating, 3×4 m, height 2 m. Now I have no problems for winter maintenance of plants, and starting from January, I plant flower seedlings there. I constantly monitor the temperature, and if it drops, I turn on the oil cooler and raise the temperature to 10-12 degrees. In large houses, the same procedure can be carried out on an insulated loggia.. 9 In the greenhouse, less evaporation of moisture from flower pots, so watering is extremely rare.

But it is necessary to carry out spraying with preparations from the red spider mite and from the whitefly – these are the main pests in the greenhouse. Here I grow and bloom: white geraniums, red, pink, crimson, lilac, cyclamens in assortment, fuchsias, Garnet, oleander, begonias always bloom, korean chrysanthemums, fat woman, camellia, eternal, sensevier.

With the beginning of spring, I spend hardening: for a short time I open the window and ventilate the greenhouse on sunny days, until the danger of frost has passed.. At this time, I transplant strongly grown plants into new pots., I shorten the branches to enhance flowering, and cut cuttings root for new plants. I always take the soil for transplanting in the store., specific for each type of plant, this is a guarantee of the absence of weed seeds in the soil and pests.

© Author: S.I. VELIKANOVA, g. Rostov-on-Vonu

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WE PLANT FLOWERS ON A STARVING RATE IN DECEMBER

The most boring time for a gardener has come.

Almost nothing to do, other than flipping through catalogs of seeds and flowers. But real flower growers always have a concern, and winter is special – these are our houseplants. It's time to take care of them with special attention.

indoor flowers, which delighted us all summer with lush flowering, Now we should have a good rest and gain strength before the new season. Many moved pots and planters from the garden – now they need a lot of care.

For the future: when you bring flowers home from the garden, give me a little quarantine, don't put them together, that live at home round pots and planters from the garden – now they need a lot of care. year. Returning flowers may carry insect larvae, which will spread to others. Spray plants with insect repellent. Prevention!

That wet, it's dry

Usually, our pets take up space on the windowsills, where is the most light. But the window sill can be treacherous – it's either too dry, either cold, and sometimes even, and other. Therefore, be sure to lay some material under the plants., the same spunbond.

Everybody knows, that in winter we drastically reduce the watering of indoor plants – not more 2 once a month. But not everyone remembers, that the rule does not apply to those plants, that bloom in winter. Everyone's favorite Decembrist sleeps all summer, and by winter begins to throw out a lot of flower stalks. And requires more frequent watering. It's eternal, which also blooms in winter, the soil in the pot must always be moist.

Cut food in half

For many years, flower growers have been debating about, whether or not to feed houseplants in winter. Opinion divided. If you are one of those, who fertilizes flowers in winter, do not forget to halve the concentration of fertilizers. It's better to just give them up altogether. – at least until February. Flowering plants can be fed with potash fertilizers, but at the same time breed them in 2 times more, than in summer.

FLOWERS ALL YEAR ROUND

If you want to update your winter garden and start another winter-flowering plant at home, pay attention to the plant with the tricky name tabernemontana. This is a small shrub with glossy bright leaves and small flowers., similar to oleander flowers. The beauty of the plant is, that it is unpretentious and blooms all year round.

5 MOST POPULAR PLANTS, WINDING IN WINTER

Schlumbergera: favorite cactus "Decembrist". For it to bloom for a long time, you should not move and rotate the pots with a flower, the plant will shed flower stalks. During flowering likes to be in a cool place..

Camellia: often suffers from heat and dry air, perfect temperature for her; ra 15°С, requires illumination during flowering.

Cyclamen: it is better to plant in a loose substrate and maintain constant humidity through the pan.

Hippeastrum: "cavalry star", likes top dressing; until the new year, zu onions are stored in the refrigerator. Then planted in a pot and put in a bright place.

Kalanchoe: unpretentious plant, moderate watering, temperature 18-20°С, p scattered light. The pot tray must be dry.

© Author: Olga Malenkova, r. Ramen, Moscow region.

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HOW CACTUS WINTER

Hopefully, your cacti, and most other succulents, rest in the cool (+10-15 city.) bright place, practically no watering, as it should be for these plants in winter. What can be waiting for them at this time of the year?

CACTUS PESTS

In dry, warm air, ticks attack more often. (like a gossamer, which is easier to see, and the more insidious cactus flatboat) and mealybug. Thrips and scale insects may disturb. Preparations for watering under the root in winter are not used, so as not to wake the cacti ahead of time. Here comes the spray, eg, «Fitovermom», "Bitoxy-bacillin", it will come in handy - two treatments with an interval of 5-7 days. Pest Control (June, shield) shoot manually, use a systemic insecticide the first time you water in the spring ("Aktara", "Tanrek").

LACK OF MOISTURE

Under ideal conditions (coolness + light + dryness) cacti usually tolerate winter well.

Fine, if they settle a little and wrinkle a little. Some species in nature are generally capable of "reducing" to such sizes., to hide almost completely underground and thus wait out an unfavorable period. But you shouldn't bring it up in an apartment..

If the succulent is too wrinkled, then moisturize it a little (about a third of the usual amount of water), to make sure you live until spring.

LACK OF LIGHT

If the cactus brightened, the crown of the stem began to thin, urgently move the "thorn" to a more lit and preferably a cooler place. Otherwise, the plant will stretch, and its shape will no longer be corrected, rather, it will take several years.

© Author: Natalia GUBANOVA, plant collector Photo by the author

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WINTER WITHOUT LOSS FOR FLOWERS – FIRST AID KIT OF A MODERN FLOWER

For green pets, winter is a real test.. Support them during this period, protect from pests, adverse factors will help reliable drugs. Which? An agrochemist will tell, collector Lilia MALTSEV. Meet!

» Agrovitamins and sticks can be used at the same time, they have different ingredients and ways of consumption. Bacteria and Biorost - alternately, at intervals 2-3 weeks.

Apply stimulants as needed, they have a different main function: "Epin" - with stress from e cold, overflow, fungal infections; "Zircon" - when cutting, transplant, plant resuscitation, they dry up, heat; "HB-101" - supports immunity and stimulates growth.

DRUG NAME	ACTION	APPLICATION
"Live bacteria for the root system"	Promotes the formation of symbiosis of roots with beneficial bacteria, that produce antibiotics (rot protection), form humus. Synthesize and export growth hormone - auxin, stimulating rooting	On 1 l of settled water is enough 2 ml of the preparation — 1 once a week. Suitable for any substrate and hydroponics
Agrovitamins "AVA"	Maximally provide the plant with a complete set of trace elements (during the rest period, it is not advisable to use macronutrients, not to give impetus to growth). Carefully interacts with the root system, without burning her. Increases resistance to disease	Lozenge capsule dissolves slowly, not from water, what is important with limited watering, but from acid, secreted by the roots. Long acting drug (6 months). For a pot with a diameter of up to 15 see contribute 1 capsule, 15-18 cm - 2, бо­лее 18 cm - 3
«Biogrowth»	Chlorella concentrate; with enhanced formula. Allows you to get an additional amount of biostimulants, needed to increase nitrogen-fixing bacteria in the soil. Restores wilted, weak and diseased plants	Water and spray - according to the instructions
Sticks "Green House". To increase plant immunity	Contain bacteria and mycorrhiza. Substances are released slowly when watering. Period of validity — 60 days. Overdose excluded	Need to stick a stick at a distance 5 see from stem and water
Sticks "Green House". Insecticide	To fight whiteflies, thrips, mealybug, etc., as well as soil pests (mosquitoes, но­гохвостки, enchirids, etc.). The drug is effective in contaminated soil, high air humidity, plant overflow and as a prophylactic. Validity - 2 months	It is necessary to stick a stick into the soil between the plant and the wall of the pot
Etisso sticks. Insectoacaricide	Reliable pest protection, including from the ubiquitous tick. Protection period - up to 8 weeks	Active ingredient after watering, soaking in the roots, through the juice spreads throughout the aerial part of the plant. The first result is visible after a few days
"Dr 8 arrows ". Insecticide	"Aktara" inside each arrow; guarantees fast efficiency	When watering, the drug is absorbed by the roots and spreads throughout the plant.. The death of insects - through 10-14 days. Protection period — 3 months
Epin, "Zircon", "NV-101"	Have a beneficial effect on plants and complement each other, but there are some nuances, that can't be forgotten	for example, "Epin" is only sprayed, since the drug does not tolerate an alkaline environment, and the soil is almost always slightly alkaline. But you can still water, if the solution is slightly acidified with lemon, vinegar or a solution of brown peat. "NV-101" is compatible with "Epin" and "Zircon": having a neutral pH, it does not destroy the active substance of the first drug and does not interfere with the work of the second
"Stimulus"	It is an aqueous solution of amino acids, trace elements and vitamins	Effectively helps the plant after an illness or pest attack
Ferovit	Plant photosynthesis and respiration stimulant	Necessary in violation of the formation of chlorophyll - the green pigment of the plant, with which it captures the energy of sunlight and photosynthesizes, releasing oxygen

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PREPARE FLOWERS FOR WINTER

It's time to prepare the rooms, tubs, container plants for difficult periods. And Olga MANUDINA (r. Lukhovitsy) I have some good advice on this matter. She takes most of her house flowers out to the greenhouse or garden for the summer., and at the end of the season he returns it to the house. So over time, the collector divided all her “dacha residents” into groups according to winter conditions.

Group I

Heat-loving and tropical “sissies”: decorative leaf begonias (Rex, Kane), peperomia, alternator, hypoesthesia, ficuses (Benjamin, deltoid, But, small-leaved), kalateya, chicken, Ethiopian head, spathiphyllum, koleus, хоя, Waller's balsam.

These are the first plants I bring home when cool weather sets in. (below +12-15 city.) and immediately put it on warm windowsills, racks, window racks. Most species are decorative-leaved, which means, moderately shade-loving (exception - various varieties of coleus). They easily tolerate a lack of light in winter and do not require additional lighting. I arrange the pots more tightly, moving closer to the light.

Since the temperature on the windowsills drops in winter, I reduce watering, to avoid hypothermia and root rotting. And so as not to overfill, I came up with this lifehack: I use measuring tape for moisturizing. (50 ml) a spoonful of fertilizers - 2-3 there are enough of them with water for 1,5 l pot.

Group II

Plants of hot countries and climates, who need a cool winter or can easily tolerate it - persistent people from the Mediterranean, tropics and desert: gibiskus, citrus, boo-henville, abutilon, rosemary, myrtle, camellia, ivy, pelargonium (zonal, royal, ivy-leaved, fragrant), cyclamen, conifers, cacti and other succulents.

After being outside, I first transfer these plants to the greenhouse for another 1-1,5 months. When there is a threat of frost and temperatures at night +5-7 city, they “move” to a heated glass veranda, to the loggia, where in winter it is not lower +5 city.

Usually, this group has a hard time withstanding hot and dry indoor conditions with insufficient lighting, therefore, it is much easier for them to survive the winter in cool conditions with minimal watering. Not terrible, even if many of them begin to lose their leaves. And some are cold (myrtle, camellia, citrus) and dry (cacti and other succulents) wintering is necessary, to set buds for next season's flowering.

Additional lighting and the presence of sunlight in such conditions are not so important, plants go dormant, many go through a natural period of rest. I put the pots on racks along the windows; I reduce watering to a minimum (1 -2 once a month according to measure (50 ml) spoon, if the ground is very dry).

A cool winter has its benefits, when the collection includes more than a dozen flowerpots, “dormant” plants do not require much care.

3 group

Tuberous, bulbous, rhizomatous and other species, who need a period of rest: tuberous begonia, amaryllis, hippeastrum, caladium, sprekelia, nerin, zefirantes, gloxinia, large-leaved hydrangea, fuchsia, chrysanthemum multiflora, brugmansia, agapanthus, ahi-less, piglet.

These plants shed their leaves for the winter and can overwinter in cool conditions in the absence of light. (corridor, utility room, the lower part of the balcony or loggia, refrigerator vegetable drawer, basement or subfloor in a private house). Also, as group no. 2, “I keep” them in September-early October in the greenhouse.

Before storing it in the basement for the winter, I make sure to remove all dry and rotten parts., clearing the soil in pots of litter. Deciduous (fuchsia, piggy bank, tuberous begonia, chrysanthemum multiflora) I cut it like this, to become compact and take up less space.

Plants overwinter until early to mid-February in complete darkness and at temperatures no higher than +5-8 city, (it is important, to make hibernation last as long as possible). I check them once a month, If necessary, water lightly, removing dead leaves.

Tubers and bulbs can also be kept in the refrigerator, if there is no suitable storage space in the container. To do this you need to clear them from the ground., trim the stems, treat with fungicide (according to instructions), dry and wrap in sphagnum or plastic bag (make holes) with vermiculite/sand. But from experience I will say: It’s still more effective to winter in the same containers, that they grew up. Tuberous begonias are most grateful for this content, who previously were often capricious, there were losses in the moss and sand. Now I’m moving the tubs of plants to the basement, I remove stems that die over time. Begonias rest for a long time, often until the end of March. I take the pots out into the light, when the fat red sprouts appear. Gloxinia and Achimenes also “behave”.

BTW. Lawson's cypress overwintered ideally on a cold veranda, which I could not successfully grow in open ground (I regularly got burned and froze). I decided to plant it in a container, and take it home for the winter. In a bright room for almost 5 months of winter, the cypress tree has even grown and fluffed up. By the way, Conifers in a container can withstand light frosts, so I “push” it to the coldest corner on the floor.

Photo by the author

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CONDITIONS FOR RESTING FLOWERS

We received a letter from Tatyana ZAGAINOVA with the request “Tell me, you are welcome, about these flowers". A reader sent a photo of a variegated bellflower, Aeschinantusa, royal pelargonium, Waller's balsam. And since she didn't specify, what exactly (conditions, care, pests, illnesses, etc.) wants to know about them, For this issue we have chosen a topic that is relevant today - how these plants overwinter. It is important to help them prepare for a difficult period.

Campanula varifolia (campanula) in autumn it goes dormant with partial death of the above-ground parts. At this time, the plant is provided with cool (+4-10 city.) keep in a bright place, limiting watering, but without allowing the soil to dry out completely. In February-March, dried parts of the shoots are cut off, this stimulates branching and flowering. Young specimens are replanted annually at the end of winter, old - every 2-3 years into a substrate of turf soil, humus and sand (1:1:0,5).

Pelargonium royal (grandiflora, home) winters well at +7-9 city, and poor watering. A cold dormant period is the main condition for lush flowering of a plant.. At the end of January they begin pruning.. “The Queen” tolerates it well, looks compact after haircut, blooms profusely. At the end of winter, if necessary, the bushes are transplanted into the same pots, in which they grew up, they only renew the soil and partially cut off the roots.

By the way, noticed by flower growers, that autumn cuttings root better, than summer. In spring they quickly grow and bloom.

Eschynanthus has a winter period of relative dormancy with a decrease in temperature to +16-18 city, (not less +15 city.) and reducing watering promotes the formation of buds. Protect the plant from cold drafts. The flower tolerates dry air well. It is not sprayed in winter. When moistening the soil, be careful, so that there is no stagnation of moisture, and here the quality of the substrate is important, it must be breathable, loose. In conditions of lack of light and low temperature, the plant is not fed.

Waller's balsam is kept in winter at a temperature not lower than + 15 city. Watering is reduced, the top layer of soil must dry out. Water is soft and settled. Regular spraying 2-3 once a week during the heating season will protect the plant from spider mite attacks. Impatiens can bloom in winter, but for this you need to keep it in a bright place or provide additional lighting, and after the formation of buds - feed.

© Author: Екатерина ПУТИНЦЕВА, biologist, collector, r. Moscow

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Dormant period of indoor plants – VIDEO CARE