Bringing the pelargonium to the house

It is necessary to have time to bring pelargonium into the house before the cold snap, while the temperature difference outside at night and in the room is insignificant.

This allows plants to acclimate more easily and not shed their leaves.. I take the dwarf ones first, miniature and variegated varieties, then - fragrant, ivy and zoned pelargoniums, in the last place - Angels and "queens".

IN GENERAL, a small leaf fall is a normal protective reaction of the plant after abundant flowering. Instances, left in the fresh air until cold and wet weather, feel much more stress. Almost all their leaves turn yellow and fall. This can also happen with improper watering - overdrying in the fall., and then overflow is more dangerous, than summer.

MY PELARGONIA CARE TIPS

Before moving into the house, spray pelargoniums on the street from pests with Actellic or Bitoxibacillin (according to instructions). "Fufanon" is also suitable, "Teppeki", "Vertimek". If the leaves have many holes from caterpillars or slugs, I process the bushes with "Lepidocide" or "Slime-eater". In any case, after three days I spill the soil with "Aktara", and a few days later - "Fundazol" for fungal infections.

I spray the houses of "Pelargosha" with "Epin" (8 drops on 1 l of water), "Zircon" (4 drops) or "HB 101" (1 a drop). I transplant the bushes into new soil only after two weeks. Cropping after a couple of weeks.

Cut off mothers after 10 days of adaptation. From the rest of the bushes after treatment with drugs for diseases and pests, I cut cuttings. Angels and "queens" I cut my hair in October-November or after flowering.

TIPS FOR CUTTING PELARGONIA

So that pelargoniums grow lush bushes, they need a haircut. You just need to know, what types of it is required in autumn.

Pelargonium royal cut "on a stump" and put in a cold (+10-12 city.) a place.

Zonal - Twice a year (in spring and autumn), it only benefits her.

Ivy it is better to cut in early spring, in the fall she has a hard time pruning.

For variegated varieties of haircut now - stress. Unless absolutely necessary, they leave her until spring.

Mini and "Dwarfs" generally not shear. They can be slightly corrected for decorative purposes., pinch.

TRAINING

I water pelargonium two days before pruning, so that the water evenly soaks the earthy lump, the cuttings were not sluggish, and the mother did not feel thirsty.

Preparing a place, where the plants will stand after the procedure, cups, soil for rooting cuttings.

SECRETS OF A SUCCESSFUL PELARGONIA CUT

I cut off young, elongated pelargoniums in autumn, leaving a couple of leaves and keeping 2-3 kidneys from below.

I do not cut old queen cells low (kidneys may not wake up). Need to, to stay 5-6 internodal. I cut my hair thoroughly in spring.

Partial pruning is practical, to ensure the rest of the plant in the cold season.

I make a cut on the mother liquor above the kidney, smooth. I use sharp tools, clean, dry (can be disinfected).

The kidney should be located outside, so that young shoots do not grow inside the bush and thicken it.

---

GROWING PELARGONIA – LANDING AND CARE AT HOME. FLOWER TIPS AND REVIEWS

---

EXPERIMENT WITH PELARGONIUM

My mom loves this flower. Somehow she decided on an experiment and grew from seeds at least fifty flowering bushes for the anniversary of her friend (8 Martha).

1. I bought seeds of different varieties. Prepared long, shallow containers with a mixture of vegetable and leaf soil, sand and peat (4:2:1:2). Spilled with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The seeds were sown at the end of October to the depth 1 cm, sprinkled with soil and moistened from a spray bottle. I covered it with glass and put it on the table in the room..
2. Waiting for shoots, transferred containers to a light cool windowsill. For better growth, fed with a solution of nitrate (0, 5 Art. l. / 5 l of water). When the second leaf appeared, she cut the seedlings into pots, fed with nitroammofoski solution (0, 5 Art. l. / 5 l of water).
3. After two months, when the bushes had 5-6 leaflets, pinched the tops and became supplemented with phytolamps. 4 A month later, she transplanted the plants into pots of slightly larger volume. By this time, the flower arrows have already appeared.. Once every two weeks, I fed them with liquid complex fertilizer (according to instructions).

5. In early March, my mother had a sea of ​​blooming pelargoniums! How happy the birthday girl was so beautiful! Plants, who did not have time to bloom by the scheduled date, Mom kept it for herself and at the end of May dropped it in the garden.

© Author: Irina YAREMENKO

---

SO DIFFERENT PELARGONIA

Last fall I exchanged pelargoniums with a colleague, transplanting a bush from her flower bed into a pot in mid-October. I didn't pick flowers and buds - I regretted it, but in vain. Put it in cool (+6-8 city.) room on the western windowsill. Watering has reduced (times in 7-10 days) and did not feed. The plant delighted with its beauty all winter. Inflorescences persisted for a long time, new flower arrows appeared. But in the spring, the leaves began to dry up and bare branches remained. Even by the fall, pelargonium did not fully recover.. This year I decided not to experiment - cut off the peduncles.

WHITE BOUQUETS

White geranium, which stood in the same cool room, did not bloom, but I had a good rest. In the spring she transplanted her into open ground, did not cut, because I wanted to quickly see the flowering. And the beauty delighted with "bouquets" all spring, summer and autumn. true, after the rains they rotted, I had to pick off individual flowers.

MY PELARONIUM COLLECTION

I decided to collect a collection of pelargoniums. Some varieties, such as Riple (dotted), and grew ivy from seeds. The rest - from cuttings (rooted in the spring, it didn't work out in late autumn). I form bushes as I grow, pinching old. I take all the plants home for the winter. I dig out from the open ground, trying not to damage the roots. Adult specimens rest in the cool, I leave little ones warm.

© Author: Gulzhan SHARIPOVA. Saratov region.

---

WINTER PELARGONIA CARE DURING THE REST PERIOD

Pelargonium in winter slows down all vegetation processes, but keeps planting buds. Therefore, forgetting about her for many months is fundamentally wrong..

1. I put the pots closer to the glass and turn them regularly, so that the bushes do not deform. To save space on the windowsill, I cut off zonal pelargoniums, Angels and kings by about 1/3.
2. I replace the top layer of soil with a loose and light one or transplant young plants into a new substrate. I loosen the earth between waterings.
3. I do not save some queen cells until spring, and I cut cuttings from them in the fall and rooted in peat. I put it on the table closer to the window (but not on a cold windowsill), without greenhouses, under phytolamp. In spring I get young flowering plants.
4. I water pelargoniums after the soil has completely dried. The more leaves are cut, the less water you need. Excess moisture leads to fungal diseases, and in combination with a lack of light, internodes are lengthened, branches stretch out and become weak.
5. I feed the plants wintering in the room once a month with a half-dose of complex fertilizer.
6. To prevent the appearance of a spider mite I treat with "Verti-mecom" or "Karamaito" (1 ml of 1 l of water) ivy-leaved pelargoniums on both sides (more susceptible to attack). It is pointless to spill the soil with drugs. If the parasite is found, processing must be repeated three times at intervals 3-4 days, changing drugs.
7. In November-December, I pinch the tops of all pelargoniums, so that the bushes are lush.

INTO THE DARK – SHORTLY

Zonal pelargoniums cut to the stump can be put on 1-2 months in a cold dark place (eg, basement), moistening the soil once a month. Don't leave them there for a longer period., as the kidneys wake up, shoots are stretched.

In spring, plants need to make formative pruning and cut the cuttings..

DRY AIR? NOT A PROBLEM FOR PELARGONIA!

I want to share my experience, how to help plants survive the heating season.

I often spray air from a spray bottle around flowers, periodically adding "HB 101" (1 drop on 1 l of water) or pine needles extract (10 ml / 1 l).

Cover the batteries with a thick cloth. “I put pots with begonias and gloxinia in a tray with expanded clay, pouring water into it, but so that it does not touch the bottom of the flowerpots.

I air the rooms during the day, covering the pets on the windowsills from the frosty air with newspapers. In the loggia, I close the windows from the upper ventilation only for the night. To prevent cold air from getting on the plants, I insert folded thick sheets of paper into the side slots of the transom.

I place containers of water between the plants.

The apartment has two humidifiers. Steam - on the floor, where are moisture-loving and large specimens. I turn it on for a couple of hours, intermittently. The humidifier-ionizer was installed in the bedroom, it additionally cleans the air from dirt and allergens. I turn it off at night.

The aquarium helps to increase the humidity in the daughter's room, standing next to plants.

And the neighbor told, that in his one-room apartment he hangs wet clothes on the dryer next to the radiator.

© Author: Zoya BELOUSOVA, r. Karaganda.

---

LOVE FOR PELARGONIA

In my childhood and youth, pelargonium (then it was called geranium) grew on every window and did not differ in a special color palette.

She was not planted in flower beds, and on the windowsills the bushes grew large, naked from below, with flowers on the crown on long peduncles. But over time, the seeds of a beauty appeared, many new varieties. And when I was presented with the first "queen" - this is where love happened! Now in my collection zonal and royal pelargoniums.

I grow these flowers mainly from cuttings.. I root them immediately in the ground. For the summer I take out all the pelargoniums in the yard, I leave the royal ones in the pots, and I plant the zonal ones in flower beds. Over the season, they grow into huge bushes., bloom profusely. I feed the plants during the flowering period twice a month with Fertika Lux fertilizer. The number of varieties is increasing every year., and the question arises for me: “Where to store all this beauty in winter?»Found a way out.

Royal hibernation on the windowsill in the cool (+9-16 city.) corridor under fluorescent lighting. The only negative for this species is the whitefly.. Before bringing plants indoors in the fall, I process "Ak-taroy": dissolve 4 r in 5 l of water and evenly water the substrate, completely wetting the earthen ball. I carry out two more procedures with an interval of a week. This allows you to get rid of adults., and from offspring.

I store the zonal ones in an immeasurable cellar. Bushes, digging out of the flower garden, cut off, leaving hemp about 10 cm, and with a lump of earth I put it in various containers. In the spring I take it to the greenhouse, I start to water a little. Strong shoots appear thanks to the powerful root system. When the weather is warm, I transplant plants into open ground. During the summer, I root cuttings from uterine specimens, who then hibernate in the cellar. Thus, the planting material becomes many times larger.. And beauty, as known, too much!

© Author: Irina KARPOVA. Saratov region. Photo by the author

---

BLACK PELARGONIA IN WINTER

If the trunk of an overgrown pelargonium is exposed and takes on a nondescript appearance, cuttings in February.

CAUTION WITH IRRIGATION

I cut the cuttings with a sharp blade (lignified I do not take, I make oblique cuts) length by 8-10 cm with two leaves. I air dry for at least an hour. Before planting, I powder the cut with "Root-wine". I put in small (100-150 ml) cups, by 2-3 cuttings in each. So that the ready-made soil for flowering species is light and breathable, I mix it with perlite or vermiculite (1:1). When planting, I make a hole for a cutting with a pencil, I do not tamp the substrate around the stem, I only slightly squeeze and water a little with settled water. I put the cuttings in a dark place. I am attentive to watering: pelargonium

will survive a slight drought, but overflow - no. I cut off all the buds that form on the cuttings, giving them the opportunity to grow stronger and not waste energy on flowering. How many cuttings have taken root, it becomes clear after three weeks. And it's not scary, if they have yellow leaves, pelargonium will throw them off and continue to actively grow. I plant in one pot 2-3 grown plants for "fluffiness". I choose different varieties in some containers, eg, with pink, burgundy, white flowers.

I save the stump REMAIN after cuttings, he gives new shoots.

© Author: Valentina ANDRUSHENKO

---

PELARGONIUM NEWS HERE

I have long wanted to replenish the collection with new pelargonium products - and at the beginning of April last year I received an order.

Transplanted cuttings from cups into half-liter pots.

IN SUBSTRATE from leaf humus, garden land from the nettle, purchased soil (1:1:1) added perlite for looseness.

When the plants have grown, passed them into flowerpots (1 l) with large drainage holes, therefore I don’t put drainage on the bottom (usually I use cut foam).

In the summer I watered abundantly, every 10 days fed with fertilizers: potassium monophosphate, potassium and magnesium sulfate (give together, dividing the doses in half) - on 1 g per liter of water. I waited impatiently for the first flowers.

In early autumn, she cut the plants on a stump, and by winter they became fluffy bushes. After pruning, the cuttings were planted in pots to the "mothers" for rooting, to plant in the ground in the spring. Kept pelargoniums on the south and west windows. Watered occasionally, acting on the principle - it is better not to top up, what to pour. Plants put up with the dryness of the soil, but waterlogging can lead to decay and death of the bush. My beauties survived the winter safely and this summer they again pleased with flowering. I think, the upcoming wintering will be no less successful.

© Author: Lyudmila SEMILETOVA, Penza region. Photo by the author

---

I TAKE CARE OF PELARGONIUM MADAME BOVARY

Given the features of the "character" of this variety of zonal pelargonium, I've been growing it for over a year without any problems..

From November to January, the plant stands on the east window, where light and not hot (+12-14 city, - in the afternoon, near +8 city. - at night). In the sun, I open the window for ventilation. I water the bush, focusing on the condition of the soil, don't let it dry out, - about twice a month.

Already at the beginning of February, Madame Bovary wakes up, and I help her get "form": I pinch the young shoots above the top point of growth (I do the main pruning in the fall), sprinkling wounds with wood ash.

I start feeding twice a month with complex fertilizers with trace elements., e.g. AVA. With yellowing and abscission of leaves, solutions of magnesium sulfate and iron in chelate form help. (according to instructions).

If the roots are completely entwined with an earthen ball, I transplant pelargonium. In a slightly larger pot I pour drainage from expanded clay and a substrate for geraniums.

May Madame Bovary grow up healthy and beautiful!

© Author: Viktor DNEPROV Photo by the author

---

THE UNIVERSE OF PELARGONIUM

A variety of shapes and colors has made zonal pelargoniums one of the most popular among flower growers.. A collector from the city of. Orla Marina ORLOVSKAYA (all photos of the author).

WINTER DREAM PELARGONIUM

In the cold season, pelargoniums have a dormant period.. So that they successfully overwinter and please with long abundant flowering in the new season, create a comfortable environment:

• bright place;
• cool room with temperature + 10-15 city., but not lower +7 (!);
• minimum watering. I moisten the plants moderately after the earthen clod dries out..

At the end of February, I cut the bushes "on a stump", leaving 3-4 buds above soil level. Not even a month will pass, how pelargoniums will grow lush greenery and form a beautiful dense crown.

After pruning, the plants are transplanted into fresh light soil of a neutral reaction with the addition of perlite or sand.. This stimulates the growth of new roots and green mass..

When seed propagation, you need to remember, that the variety of hybrids is not transferred. You cannot grow tulips from seed., rosaceae, many terry specimens. In this case, only cuttings will help.. By the way, if you see yellow, blue, purple shades of petals on the seed package, do not be fooled - plants

Charms from seeds with this color of flowers do not exist. Seeds can be sown almost all year round, but the best time is january-february. I use neutral peat with sand and perlite (3:1:1). I spread the seeds at a distance 4-5 cm apart, embedding in depth 0,5 cm. I spray crops from a spray bottle and put the container in a bright place. Covering with foil is optional.. The main thing is to monitor the humidity and temperature (not less +23 city). Seedlings appear after 1 -3 weeks. I water them with warm settled water., without getting to the above-ground part. After the appearance 3-4 real leaves seedlings transplanted into small containers. As they grow, I increase the volume of the pot..

PELARGONIA IN THE GARDEN

When consistently warm weather sets in, I take out flowerpots with flowers into the garden or plant bushes in a flower bed.

Plants are not afraid of small temperature fluctuations, love warmth. They are suitable for sunny or semi-shady areas without soaking.. If the ground is heavy, clayey, non-acidic peat and sand are added to the hole - for loosening. I follow the watering, avoiding waterlogging.

During the summer, I feed pelargoniums with a universal fertilizer with a high content of potassium and phosphorus.. When frost occurs, the bushes can be dug up, cut, plant in a pot with a substrate and store in a cool, bright room until the next season.

---

SPRING CUTTING OF PELARGONIA – VIDEO

© Author: Zoya BELOUSOVA Photo by the author