SUBSTRATE RECIPES FOR INDOOR PLANTS

No. Mixture and its composition

Who suits

1. Turf, leaf land, humus, peat, sand

Aloe (without peat, but with added. bricks, crumbs, woody. coal), aucuba (or No. 2), gasteria (+brick. chit), hemanthus, hippeastrum, Zantedeschia, clerodendrum, laurel (or No. 2), lemon (or No. 2), oleander (or No. 2), sansevieria (or No. 2), fascia (or No. 2), sheffler

No. Mixture and its composition

2. Turf, leaf land, humus, peat, sand (1:1:1:1:1)

Who suits

Abutilon, lantana, мурая, agave, kalanchoe, passionflower, pahistahis, pelargonium, ivy, saline, tetrastigma, akalifa, ficus, fuchsia, chlorophytum, gibiskus, asparagus, saxifrage, beloperone (+bone meal), brovallia, bugenvillea, adiantum (with less peat - 0,3 h), Garnet, dracena, milkweed, kufeya, cordyline, coffee (with increasing. containing. high-moor peat)

No. Mixture and its composition

3. Leaf land, humus, peat, sand (2 (3):1:1:1)

Who suits

Begonias (+0,25 parts of turf land), kalateya (+хвойн. Earth, woody. coal + 0.25 parts of turf), pellet, polypodium or millipede, peromia, chicken, plectranthus (or No. 2), streptocarpus, tradescantia, phyttonia, cyclamen, epic, eschinantus (+woody. coal, sphagnum, perlite)

4. Sheet, coniferous (humus from fallen needles) Earth, peat, sand (1:1:1:0,5)

Aglaonema, allocation, amorphophallus (+1 part of humus), anthurium (+conifer bark, woody. coal), heather, gardenia, dieffenbachia, jasmine, caladium, monstera, spathiphyllum.

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HOW TO PREPARE THE RIGHT SUBSTRATE FOR PLANTS – VIDEO

© Author: Ludmila ULEISKAYA. Cand. biol. Science, r. Yalta (To be continued)

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SOIL AND MIXTURES FOR HOUSE PLANTS – COOKING TIPS AND SELECTION FEEDBACK

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THE SOIL IS READY

I try to make an individual composition of the soil for each plant., depending on their preferences. Therefore, I approach the issue of transplantation seriously and in advance., to have time to prepare the necessary components.

SPHAGNUM MOH

Add dry to mix.. I use fresh for rooting cuttings and in totems.

RICE PUSH

Well loosens the soil and enriches it with nutrients.

FOAM GLASS

Ideal for drainage and hydroponics. Switched to it instead of expanded clay.

PEARLITE

Medium and large fractions. Perfectly loosens the soil and retains moisture. I also root cuttings in it..

COCONUT CHIPS

I use a large fraction.

I don't use regular coco peat..

VERMICULITE

Only large fraction, and not always, more like perlite.

CONIFEROUS OPAD

Suitable for ferns. Also coniferous needles repel midges.

PINE BARK

I rarely add, eg, ferns.

Zion

Long lasting fertilizer.

© Author: Daniel LUBOV, collector, r. Permian

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RECIPE FOR MINERAL SUBSTRATE OR OWN HANDS LECHUZA

Heard about the cure? I'll tell you, how I myself compose a similar mineral substrate.

I mix by 1 pieces of zeolite, diatomaceous earth, brick chips and 1/2 - volcanic lava, perlite, gravel. Fraction of components - approximately from 2 to 5 mm. Adding a long-acting fertilizer to the mix (eg, The Eighth) according to instructions. This substrate is great for succulents. (eg, all my sans vieria grow in it, north), aroid (anthurium, spa typhyllum, scindapsus, epipremnums, monstery) and many other plants.

BENEFITS OF THE SUBSTRATE

No dirt, easy to transplant plants, seat the baby without damaging the roots.

reusable. Rinse before next use.

Can be used as a full-fledged substrate or as an addition to the usual soil.

It does not require drainage..

Pests don't like it. Mushroom mosquitoes do not live in it.

© Author: Olga MARSO. Krasnodar region. Photo by the author

I have a question for the author of the mineral substrate recipe Olga Marceau: how to organize watering for plants when planting in such a landless mixture, whether a special approach is needed? Raisa

Proper watering is the main secret of success. And the biggest danger is excess moisture., which can cause decay, bacterial infections and plant death.

There is no universal instruction. I'll just highlight the factors., affecting the frequency of watering.

• Room temperature.
• Air humidity.
• Amount of direct sunlight, falling on the plant.

Volume and material of the pot (I use plastic pots with pallets, as in ceramic, gypsum, etc.. substrate dries quickly, have to water frequently).

LEARNED FROM MISTAKE

1. At first I looked at the soil in a transparent glass and, seeing water droplets on the walls, waited, when it is completely dry. But it's almost impossible, since due to the porous structure of the components, water first evaporates, then soaked back.

What to do: water a little, in small portions. Moisture will distribute itself in the soil, and the plant will take its toll.

2. After the case described above, the plants lost turgor. I started watering them more., more often and as a result flooded.

What to do: you need to restore watering slowly, pour water around the edge of the pot.

TIPS FOR BEGINNERS

It is better to buy transparent pots and monitor the drying of the substrate..

Or water, as soon as you see changes in turgor. Better replenish lost moisture, how to cure rot.

You can also rake the pebbles and look at the degree of drying by color.

IMPORTANT

Drainage with mineral soil is not needed. But drainage holes are a must., and more. Such a substrate retains so much moisture, how much can you absorb, the rest will go into the pan (if you suddenly overdo it). I water like this, so that water does not spill out from below.

Olga MARSO. Krasnodar region

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SUBSTRATE RECIPES FOR AROID AND FERN

I am already getting ready for the season of active transplants and today I will share a couple of recipes for soil mixtures.

1. UNIVERSAL FOR AROID:

• (all ingredients - one part)
• peat nutrient soil;
• coarse coco coir (coconut chips) ;
• sphagnum moss;
• perlite;
• rice husk.

SOIL should be loose and airy. Then he will be able to retain moisture and pass oxygen to the root system..

2. SBUSTRATE FOR FERN:

• finely chopped sphagnum moss - 1 tsp.;
• perlite — 1 h.;
• peat nutrient soil - 1 h.;
• coniferous litter - 1/3 h.
• In each of the compositions I add

"ZION" - ion-exchange substrate-fertilizer with prolonged action, thanks to which the plant will receive the necessary nutrients for a long time.

© Author: Daniel LUBOV. collector, r. Permian

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PRIMING: TRANSITION TO MINERAL

Above I shared a recipe for a mineral substrate, similar to lechuza. Now I'll tell, how to transfer plants to it from any other soil.

To begin with, I limit watering and dry the soil in a pot..

Then I carefully remove the plant from the flowerpot and clean the root system from the ground as much as possible. (eg, I wash sansevieria under a warm shower).

Remove dead or broken roots. They can cause rot. If there is visible damage to large roots, cauterize with brilliant green.

I plant the plant in a clean pot with a mineral substrate.

I don't water for days, to dry all wounds. Then I start moisturizing in small portions..

The plant may lose turgor for a while, but this is a normal reaction and does not mean, need more moisture. Give time to adapt, avoiding the bay.

If necessary, I transplant my green pets at any time of the year, and February is no exception..

© Author: Olga MARSO, collector. Krasnodar region.

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CHECKING SOIL ACIDITY FOR HOME PLANTS

it happens, plant a plant, feed him, watering, and it's yellow, sick, refuses to bloom. What's the matter? And in that, much depends on the level of soil acidity (pH).

You need to check this indicator when preparing mixtures for transplanting a collection, for seedlings. After all, often, what is written on the package, does not match with, what is inside.

For most crops, a neutral or slightly acidic reaction is considered ideal as the most favorable for soil microorganisms.. Although there are exceptions, eg, hydrangeas and rhododendrons prefer sourness.

At home, simple tests with litmus papers will help determine the acidity of the substrate. (in an acidic environment - red color, in alkaline - blue, in neutral - purple).

It is important to measure the reaction of water for irrigation.

It is possible to carry out a third experiment: determine soil acidity, water and see the pH level after watering.

© Author: Svetlana POLOUS. collector. Moscow region.

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WE MAKE A SUBSTRATE

By the end of spring I want to transplant succulents. I always bought special soil. Can, advise the mixture, which is easy to make yourself?

Polina GIRINA, Altai region

To grow succulents, you need a loose mineral substrate., which dries quickly.

TWO main components: clay base (forest land, garden) and inert baking powder (coarse sand, perlite, pumice stone, vermiculite, etc.) in relation to 2:1.

The mixture should easily pass water, do not cake or flake off the walls of the pot.

When compiling the substrate, it is necessary to take into account the preferences of plants.. for example, euphorbia needs heavier and denser clay soil, dangerous, on the contrary, airy and with a more hygroscopic baking powder, so, like vermiculite.

PREPARING FOR LANDING

There is no need to ignite or steam the earth. Should not be spilled with potassium permanganate, since this strong oxidizing agent impairs its chemical properties.

Don't use big pots, so that the soil does not remain too wet for a long time, what is bad for succulents. Small plastic or clay containers will do - the main thing, do not flood the plant.

© Author: Петр Лапшин, Cand. biol. Science, r. Moscow

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MINERAL SUBSTRATE OWN HANDS

I grow all my succulents in a mineral substrate., That's why, when a new plant comes into your hands, I immediately transplant it into my. I'll tell you, how do i do it, on the example of Sansevieria Hahnii mediopicta.

1. I shake out the newcomers from the old soil and wash the roots under running water.. Sansevieria tolerate this procedure perfectly. (not all species can wash the root system).
2. I make a solution of fungicides, insecticides and acaricides (every time a different drug) and soak the plants in it for about an hour.
3. I leave to dry upside down for a day - I hang it along the edge of the bucket.
4. checking, so that no water remains in the center of the outlet. If there are still drops, you can wipe them off with a paper towel.
5. I plant plants in transparent plastic cups - it is convenient to monitor the condition of the roots. I do not additionally moisten the mineral substrate - it already contains moisture.
6. I water for the first time on the third day, little by little around the edge of the glass.
7. I leave the new ones in a separate room, away from other plants for a month.

I repeat the treatment from pests and diseases in a week and observe.

© Author: Olga MARSO, Krasnodar region. Photo by the author

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OPINION – READY GROUND: PRIVATE OPINION AND FEEDBACK

Selecting soil for the next season and for the winter garden, sometimes it turns out from the series “what the eye fell on, bought it", and as a result, an infected substrate comes across. I would be grateful, if experienced flower growers share, what soil to choose.

Alexandra Popova.

Infection occurs even among expensive soils, and most often this is due to improper storage in retail stores. But the quality of the substrate and the effect on plant development can only be determined empirically.. And I even have my rating.

"Mother Earth"

Chernozem soil (few of them on the market, immediately stands out among the peat). According to the description on the package, he is healed with natural biological products. “Phytosporin” and "Tires", so it does not need to be treated for fungal infections. Also enriched with natural humus fertilizer "Host-Father" and light ceramic baking powder, similar to zeolite, that make the soil structural, highly fertile and airy. There is a wide range of special soils: for lemon, ficuses, cactus, violets, etc..

Ecological

Universal eco-primer. Loose, soft, fluffy, permeable. Contains horse peat, soil improvers - vermiculite and river sand (in floral also perlite), and also contains nutrition in the form of biohumus and protection against rot in the form of "Fitosporin". Never had a problem with him.. More expensive than others.

Peter Peat

Universal flower soil from a mixture of high and low peat, agroperlite, sand, limestone flour and immediately filled with mineral fertilizer. Therefore, fertilizing after planting can be postponed for several months..

Earth Life

The Living Earth series already contains vermicompost. The soil is suitable for seedlings and indoor flowers. The peat in the package is moistened and can not be watered during transplantation. At the first watering perfectly absorbs water. But, despite all the excellent qualities, most often it is in this substrate that midges start. Therefore, be sure to process it or calcine it before planting..

"Agricola"

Universal primer. Like its structure, but there are snags, crust, roots, which I remove. Shrinks slightly when watered. Contains Standard Starter Mineral Complex, suitable for most vegetable and flower crops. Most often I take this substrate for seedlings and green cuttings. (hydrangea shoots take root especially well). Please note, that there are practically no soil improvers in the composition, so grab when buying agroperlite.

© Author: Elena LIMANOVA, r. Sochi. Photo by the author

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THE IDEAL GROUND FOR HOUSEPLANTS – VIDEO