HOW TO CARE FOR SPATIFILLUM ?

Olga Rozhenko, r. Success, Donetsk region.,

Spathiphyllum (or, as it is also called, "woman's happiness") very gentle and beautiful. The aroma of flowers is refined and pleasant, in the evening it becomes more intense. This plant is not difficult to care for, but it also has its own nuances.

Watering mode

Spathiphyllum loves good watering in spring and summer., during flowering. The soil in the pot should dry out between waterings., t. to. spathiphyllum does not like waterlogging.

In the autumn-winter period I water moderately. At this time, the plant can stay without water for a long time., but you should constantly watch him, so as not to dry out.

Illumination requirements

Spathiphyllum prefers diffused light t. to. direct sunlight can harm the leaves. Therefore, it is better to shade the plant., especially in summer.

By the way

Spathiphyllum prefers high air humidity, loves spraying at any time of the year.

Temperature regime

Average temperature for spathiphyllum -16-17 °C. Withstands downgrade and up 13 'FROM, but it slows down growth.

In the summer, my spathiphyllum is at a temperature 22-23 °C. If it rises to 27 °C, then I water the plant abundantly.

IRRIGATION AND FEEDING

I planted a flower in a pot with a large water tray. Evaporating moisture creates a special microclimate for the plant.

In the spring I feed spathiphyllum with mineral fertilizers (1,5 d on 1 l of water). In summer and during flowering, you can also feed with minerals. Organics are also good fertilizers.

When the plant is still small, you need to fertilize 1 times in 2 weeks. Then you can feed 1 once a month. In winter, I practically do not feed or very rarely and in very small quantities.

Spathiphyllum transplant

I transplant young spathiphyllum plants 1 once a year. The best time for this – Spring. If the spathiphyllum grows strongly, I divide it into several bushes. You don't need to divide – in this case I don’t shake off the earthen lump, but I transplant with him. The plant adapts faster in a new pot, t. to. roots are not damaged.

Substrate, where my spathiphyllum grows, – peat, leaf land, humus and river sand (1:1:1:0,5). I definitely add charcoal, brick chips, coarse tree bark. It gives good aeration and moisture-holding capacity. The number of additives should be no more than 10% from the total mass of the substrate.

I transplant adult plants 1 times in 3-5 years old. The decision to transplant must be made, considering the appearance of the plant. It is no longer young and well-rooted spathiphyllum, it is still better not to touch, just replace the topsoil.

Reproduction

I propagate spathiphyllum by dividing the bush. It's just good to do it, replanting a plant. I divide the bush very carefully, I try not to damage the dividers and roots. I remove wilted leaves immediately.

If there are no roots when dividing, I bet on 2-3 weeks in water for rooting, until roots appear at least 2-3 cm, then I plant it in the ground. If i don't want, for the plant to grow, I can leave one point of growth and rhizome. It is better to divide the bush at a temperature 20-21 °C.

Each rhizome should have several sheets (minimum 2-3). I plant the delenka in a pot with a diameter 15 cm, not more. I pre-fall asleep with a substrate, which indicated above.

Spathiphyllum does not bloom – what to do?

Too young plants bloom very rarely. Spathiphyllum roots should fill the entire pot – only then does flowering begin. Therefore, you need to choose the right pot, it shouldn't be too spacious.

The flower may not bloom due to the low temperature in the room, insufficient moisture, lack of fertilizers.

Spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow or black

If the leaves of spathiphyllum turn yellow, likely, he lacks moisture. Try to bathe the plant once a week in warm water. (not less 20 °C). If the tips of the leaves turn yellow, this indicates watering with hard water.

If the leaves turn black and begin to dry, means, you are watering wrong: too much or too little. If the watering is regulated, but the problem remains, means, the flower lacks phosphorus or nitrogen.

Here is such a capricious flower – spathiphyllum. But believe me: it is not by chance called "female happiness".

All worries and labors pay off, when i see it bloom.

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SPATIFILLUM HOME – LANDING AND CARE. FLOWER TIPS

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SPATIFILLUM – HOLIDAY FLOWER

At one time, I have been visited by various spathiphyllums, but in the end she left one - variegated with fragrant flowers.

I learned about the scent by accident: other plants did not bloom at that time - and this is how she made her little discovery.

I received a small rooted stalk of this spathiphyllum on the eve 2013 years from a friend of Lenochka Shavarina - it just so happened, that each of our meetings is crowned with an exchange of plants. I arranged it on a bedside table in the far corner of the room by the shelf with Saintpaulias - it's warm, lightly, no drafts. And a year later, changing the ground, transplanted into a larger flowerpot and put on the south window of the room. Spathiphyllum looked good there, blossomed, but, looking at a photo from four years ago, I understand, which sometimes happens for the good and the "flower catastrophe".

It happened before the new 2017 year. Holiday chores, battery heat, easy, fast drying soil… I talked about saving the bush. Then I had to cut the spathiphyllum on a stump, leaving only small lateral shoots - this helped the plant recover from stress faster. The turgor of the cut cutting also recovered. First I put him on a mother plant, but there he fell "out of the court", and I identified the cutting in a separate pot.

Last summer, I took the spathiphyllum to the southern loggia. Summer was not hot, and he stood by the wall under the canopy of higher plants. Light enough, but the sun did not disturb the leaves. The window is always open, there is access to fresh air. Watered, when the soil was practically dry. Fertilizers were applied at a very low concentration. And as a result - the "hemp" is not visible and the spathiphyllum looks stocky and thick. And how the leaves are painted - do not stop looking. And still pampers with aroma - a festive flower!

Elena KHOMICH, r. Balashikha, Moscow region. Photo by the author

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KREPYSH SPATIFILLUM

I consider spathiphyllum one of the most tenacious plants. You only need to follow a few simple rules for caring for it..

1. Water without waterlogging and overdrying.
2. The capacity should be the size of the root system. In a large flowerpot, there is a danger of overflow and root rot.
3. Optimal substrate: universal soil (I take with the addition of coconut fiber), vermiculite, coarse pine bark (1-1,5 cm), zeolite (2-5 mm), sphagnum moss cut into pieces, crushed charcoal - 3:1:1:0,5:0,5:0,5.
4. The plant is comfortable in diffused lighting. Feels great under backlight.
5. Cold Drafts Avoid.
6. You need to feed from March to September with fertilizer for flowering. I use German food Sotro.

To remove dust from leaves and prevent pests, needs a warm shower once a week. Spathiphyllum loves high air humidity, so you can turn on a humidifier nearby or spray the leaves a couple of times a day.

© Author: Inna KRAVCHENKO Author's photo

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SPATIFILLUM "WOMAN'S HAPPINESS", MEN'S KIND

There are many legends about spatifillum. They say, he helps to find his love, and so, who already has it, - maintain harmony in relationships and improve well-being. The people call the flower so - "female happiness". Settle a handsome man in your house. And so that spathiphyllum regularly bloomed with "white sails", follow some care rules.

LIGHTING AND TEMPERATURE

I put the plant on the south window with attraction. In bright diffused light, it grows large, inflorescences last for a long time. And in a shaded place, the leaf stalks stretch out, spathiphyllum does not bloom and slows down growth.

HEAT-LOVING, comfortable temperature for him - about +22 city. In winter I follow, so that she does not fall below +16 city. Drafts and cold temperatures can kill the plant..

IRRIGATION AND FEEDING

I defend water for irrigation for at least a day. In the spring and summer, I water abundantly after the topsoil dries.. Less in winter, but I do not allow the soil to dry out. In the summer I often spray (without hitting the inflorescences) and arrange a warm shower. I put the pot on a pallet with wet expanded clay.

I feed it once every two weeks from spring to autumn, alternating mineral and organic fertilizers. If the plant blooms in winter, I also feed him, but once a month. I make the solution a little weaker than the recommended dose: with an excess of fertilizer, brown spots appear on the leaves.

TRANSPLANTATION OF SPATIFILLUM

I transplant in the spring, carefully, so as not to damage the roots (they are fragile and brittle). I take a new pot a little more than the old one, I put a high drainage layer on the bottom. Mix - equal parts of leaf and sod land, peat, humus and river sand, add some charcoal. When transplanting, an overgrown spathiphyllum bush sometimes I divide.

So that the plant then hurts less and the rooting process goes faster, I spray more often, water sparingly and keep warm.

If the leaves wilt badly, cover with a transparent plastic bag, I air it twice a day.

FROM MY OBSERVATIONS

From excess moisture in the soil, yellow-brown spots appear on the leaves.

Spathiphyllum does not bloom, when the pot is too large and the roots have not fully mastered the volume of the earth, and also with a lack of light.

When the air humidity is low, the tips of the leaves dry, and the risk of being affected by spider mites also increases.

The edges of the leaves turn black with a lack of nutrition or a low temperature of the content.

© Author: Marina PROLYGINA, r. Dankov. experienced florist

THE BENEFITS AND MAGIC OF SPATIFILLUM

Spathiphyllum tops the list of plants (NASA research) by the ability to cleanse the air from the three most common harmful substances: formaldehyde, benzene and tri-chloroethylene, also handles toluene and xylene. Significantly reduces the number of pathogenic microorganisms. Actively fights mold fungi.

Frees up space at home from worries, overweight, bad appearance, low self-esteem.

© Author: Elena MAZOVA, astrologer

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SPATIFILLUM AFTER PURCHASE

I bought a blooming spathiphyllum at the beginning of winter. Can it be transplanted, without waiting for spring?

How to do it right?

Raisa MOROZOVA, Rostov region.

Winter (and deep autumn) with its short daylight hours - not the best time to transplant. Buying a flowering or faded plant now, need to decide, is it really necessary to disturb him or is it better to leave him until spring in a transport pot. Examine carefully the bush and soil. If the spathiphyllum grows in the center and to the edge, at least 1 – 2 cm, Roots don't come out through drainage holes., leaf tips do not dry out, then the transplant can be postponed. Moreover, the substrate in the flowerpot is selected specifically for this culture..

CHOOSE A NEW POT FOR SPATIPHILLUM

In the spring, when the roots appear in the drainage holes, and the leaves will become crowded, you can start transplanting.

With special care you need to choose a new pot, on which the flowering of spathiphyllum depends. Fibrous roots develop laterally, so the flowerpot should be wide and shallow, on 2-3 larger than previous. After all, spathiphyllum is transplanted infrequently (times in 3-4 of the year). Earlier transshipment is recommended due to the rapid growth of the root system..

Opinion, that the plant blooms only in a cramped pot, in my opinion, myth. Experience shows, that in such conditions flowering or not, or is it single. In addition, there is a risk of frequent overdrying and, usually, abundant watering after. As a result, the leaves begin to shrink, tips blacken, and outlets are slowly dying.

For transplanting into a properly selected container, without violating the integrity of the coma, the plant reacts calmly. Usually he doesn't even need a greenhouse..

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SPATIFILLUM – HOME CARE: VIDEO