CULTIVATION OF SUCCULENTS IN HOME CONDITIONS ON GRAVEL

Greetings to indoor plant lovers.

I want to share my experience in growing cacti and succulents in a mineral substrate on a windowsill.

For a couple of years I was "having fun" with soil mixtures, experimented with their composition, studied articles and thematic forums.

I was looking for “sacred” places with mole mounds in the vicinity, harvested land with the desired pH through deciduous groves and coniferous windbreaks…

And how many different additives in the form of perlite / vermiculite and sand from a quarry near the river - do not count. But the proportions of all these ingredients are also important.! They need to be selected and preferably individually for each type of plant..

And then one day I decided - that's enough! There must be alternative ways to grow succulents and cacti.. And I found them.

IN SEARCH FOR SUBSTRATE REPLACEMENT

The first mention of mineral substrates, which I came across on the Internet, - beautiful cactus collection, contained for decades exclusively in brick chips, without adding other components, including land. This example inspired me to further search for options and watch numerous videos on a similar topic..

FIRST EXPERIMENT

Finally, I made up my mind and transplanted a small withering Haworthia cooperi into regular gravel with a fraction 4-8 mm.

The transplant took place in the middle of winter, and whole 2 for a month I patiently walked in circles around my "charm" and monitored her condition. By the end of the second month of observing the poor fellow, sitting in bare stones, I was surprised to understand, that Haworthia is not going to "die".

On the contrary, she pouted, has grown an ideal rosette and, looks like, enjoyed life with might and main. By the way, for these 2 months two other Haworthia and one Gasteria, which were much stronger in appearance, safely departed to another world from the earth substrate.

GOOD LUCK

When my patience has run out (languish in ignorance for whole 2 months!), I decided to look, what roots did my subject grow in the gravel. An attempt to shake the haworthia out of the pot was only partially successful - only gravel spilled out, and that's not all, about a third of him was firmly and tenderly swaddled by wonderful fat, snow-white roots! My joy was endless. This is how I became an adherent of supporters mineral substrates.

FARTHER – MORE

Within a month, I transplanted all the bitches into gravel. Since at that time there were not many of them and they could not boast of large sizes, I purchased a ready-made substrate, although it is quite expensive - Lechuza PON (PON owl), zeolite mixture, pumice, lava with the addition of fertilizers, etc..

First season, spent by plants in lechuz, was beautiful - they grew, tolsteli, bush. The only thing, did not bloom, but this did not bother me - I made a discount for the adaptation period, plus it's a little sunny summer.

LIFE MAKES CORRECTIVES

Autumn came, and the collection moved from the sub-windows of the south-west direction of the sub-lamp. After a month of "sublamp" life, I noticed, that the plants are "sad". It turned out, large amount of light and temperature +25 city, contributed to the rapid drying of the mineral substrate, and regular watering every 10 days for plants began to miss. Transplanted into plastic pots (before that grew up in ceramics).

Another nuance: different plant species have different roots. Powerful - at the Haworthies, gaster, aloe and agave, loofah-like, thin - in various crassulas. After pondering the situation and reading various sources on the Internet, I sifted the whole thing through a sieve with holes Zmm. Happened 2 factions: one is smaller (2-3 mm), for species with fine fibrous roots, the second one is larger (4-8 mm) for succulents with a strong root system.

After this adjustment, my plants are doing well again., some even bloomed. However, this is not the end of the story.…

so, I stopped my story on that, that the plants in the mineral substrate have adapted, some even started to bloom. Then I would have to interrupt the experiments, but, as they say, life does not stand still - there is a need for another transplant.

Many succulents have outgrown their pots during a year of life in a mineral substrate and began to require more volume., what, naturally, also implies a significant consumption of the substrate, and "Lechuza PON" is not a cheap option at all. When you have, eg, 10 plants - can be grown in lechuza, and if a few hundred? Naturally, I wanted to dilute the mineral substrate with something less expensive, but the physical properties are not inferior to the main components of lechuza - pumice, lava and zeolite. These ingredients are porous, with neutral acidity, hold moisture well and give it to the plant gradually. Plus they are light, no sharp edges and breathable - the risk of flooding is minimal. Of the available components, claiming to be an additive to my substrate, after a long search and samples, two remained - diatomite and zeolite.

FINAL CHOICE

Diatomite is sold in the garden departments of shops under the name "Krem-Nevit" and costs almost like "Lechuza PON".

At the same time, in the departments with pet supplies, it is also offered as a filler for cat litter., eg, Pussy Cat mineral (fine fraction 2-3 mm), and "BIO Comfort" super absorbent (larger fraction 4-6 mm). Such zoological components for the substrate are much more budgetary..

Zeolite already exists in Lechuza, and experienced cactus growers do not advise adding it to the mixture anymore 30%, and better 15%. This is due to the property of zeolite to initially absorb harmful substances., which is great. But after a while, it begins to release everything absorbed back, which is not good at all.

So I opted for diatomite, and for the second year my plants live in a mixture of it with lechuza 1 x1 and feel great. Little of, periodically arrange sowing: I sow in a fine fraction of such a mineral substrate, and the seeds of various types of succulents sprout wonderfully, and the seedlings are pleasing with the growth rate.

FEEDINGS ARE IMPORTANT

Obviously, that plants in gravel culture should receive nutrients regularly and in sufficient quantities. Therefore, every third or fourth watering I add fertilizers to the water. I use any specialized drugs available, necessarily with microelements in chelated form, I dilute them in half the dose of the value indicated in the instructions. In my conditions, Bona FORTE. For cacti and succulents ", "Good Power. For cacti and succulents "and" Florovit. For bonsai ". Those instances, who spend the winter under the lamps, I feed the same, as in the summer on the windows, - every third watering.

IRRIGATION FEATURES

The water is good in my area (from an artesian well), therefore, it is not necessary to defend and boil it. So I water it warm (+25-30 city.) tap water. I do bottom watering once a month or two, leaving the pots completely in water for half an hour, at the same time give the plants a warm shower, they love this business. After such water procedures, I leave it to dry slightly, do not directly expose to sunlight to avoid burns. At all, for the entire time of using the mineral substrate and wintering under the lamps, none of my plants got burned after leaving the "underground" on the windows with the burning spring sun. So I don't shade them unnecessarily.

Hopefully, some of the readers will be inspired by my notes, and there will be more supporters of mineral substrates. Share your experience too!

© Author: Anna GASHNIKOVA, r. Minsk. Photo by the author

---

CULTIVATION OF SUCCULENTS IN HOME CONDITIONS – LANDING AND CARE. TIPS AND SECRETS OF GARDENERS

---

SUCCULENTS "LIVE" PAINTINGS

Succulents got into my collection from friends "under pressure": or pick up, or throw away.

LET LIVE

Divided the bushes and transplanted into fresh soil. Since it was warm, put it in the yard under a grape bush on a table. A little later I moved him closer to the sun, but direct rays fell on the adopters only periodically. Over time, most of them formed rosettes, acquired symmetrical outlines - handsome. When I read about them, it turned out, my tenants are not so picky. Love the sun, moderate watering, perfectly tolerate dry air, what is important in our southern climate, and containers with soil suitable for them modest in size.

FOR COMPOSITION SUCCULENTA SUPER!

Later, when for a composition of indoor flowers I could not pick up flowering plants "beaten" by the July heat, pleasantly surprised by succulents. Everyone stood tight, beautiful, and the colors: from intense green to smoky silver. Srono added cacti to her scarce collection of thorns on the market at that time, stonecrops, peasants. Found suitable bowls, vases, boxes and began to create flower arrangements. I added various elements as decor: animal made of plastic, miniature flowerpot,artificial insect, etc.. The soil is sprinkled with fine gravel or white marble chips. The result exceeded expectations - in fact, she created "living" pictures out of nothing!

© Author: Elena TIPS, Nikolaev region. Photo by the author

---

7 ERRORS IN CARE OF SUCCULENTS

1. POT "FOR GROWTH"

Succulents, unlike most houseplants, do not know how to resist various rot. The roots of plants are tender, suffer greatly from stagnant moisture. It is in a deep or wide container that the soil constantly remains moist.. This is why you need to use cramped, shallow dishes., in which the soil mixture dries quickly.

2. SUBSTRATE WITH PEAT

Nutrient peat is not suitable for growing succulents, rich in soil microflora. Main components in equal parts: forest or garden land from under a deciduous tree, mineral baking powder (coarse sand, perlite, vermiculite). But the requirements differ for different succulents.. for example, euphorbia prefer a denser substrate, and Haworthia - air, loose.

3. FIGHT AGAINST ROT

Mushroom rot develops slowly and appears, when it's cool. You can still try to fight them with the help of fungicides. ("Maxim", Vitaros, "Score" and others.). Bacterial rots develop quickly, destroying the plant in a couple of days. If you notice spots on your pet, mold, watery leaves, urgently cut off all healthy parts and root them again.

4. DISINFECTION

The ground under the trees is usually healthy (especially forest). It does not need to be ignited or steamed. A big mistake is to spill the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate. This oxidant degrades its chemical properties., and also creates a crust on the surface of the soil.

5. TRANSFER

Purchased plant (healthy looking) must be transplanted from peat substrate. But not by transshipment, and carefully dismantling the earthen lump. If you damage small thin roots, nothing will happen. Protect the strongest. No need to wash or brush them.

6. BAD LIGHT

Away from the window, succulents can last a maximum of a month.. Moreover, the ground in this case should be practically dry.. Plants love good diffused lighting. In the dark they stretch out and die.

7. ROOTING IN WATER

Cuttings and leaves of succulents are rooted immediately in the substrate, after drying on the windowsill for 2-5 days. They rot in the water.

© Author: Dmitry Ulochkin, florist-biochemist, r. Ryazan

---

WE KEEP THE COLORING OF SUCCULENTS UNTIL SPRING

Succulents at home do not have enough ultraviolet spectrum in winter, which affects the intensity of the pigment. And if the plant has a natural green color, then in low light it will slightly "fade". To maintain interesting colors, eg, echeveria, sedum, graptopetalum, necessary, so that they stay on a sunny cool windowsill or veranda for as long as possible, in the loggia, where there is enough light and fresh air, and night temperature differs significantly from daytime, what is difficult to provide in an apartment. In addition, in the cold season, succulents rest., therefore I rarely water them at this time, only slightly wetting the soil.

After all, the root system is not able to assimilate the same amount of water., and excess moisture in low light contributes to the "greening" of wonderful specimens with purple, yellow-orange, red colors.

All plants, sure, will survive the winter, but if the necessary conditions are not met (moderate watering, cool(+10-15 city.) content, sunny location, soil suitable for succulents) lose their bright color.

© Author: Elena TIPS, Nikolaev region. Photo by the author

---

COMPOSITIONS FROM SUCCULENTS

Succulents are some of the most unpretentious indoor plants.. Small compositions created from them look just great.. Small footprint, but at the same time original and low maintenance, they will live well on the desktop, and at home, and can even be a great gift.

BASIC PRINCIPLES

Having several succulent plants at your disposal (cactus, fat women, criticisms, etc.), you can create a variety of compositions, considering the following points.

Composition container. Bowls are best suited for these purposes.: plants in them are located freely and have a place for growth. Bowls can be like plastic, and ceramic. Plants can also be planted in a beautiful plate, and into a wide opaque plafond from the lamp. the main thing, so that there are drainage holes in the dishes used. If the holes are not provided for the structure of the container, then in this case the bowl needs at least 1/3, fill with drainage and water very carefully accordingly.

The shape of the container can be very different.: round, square, oval or rectangular. It is desirable to select a neutral color.: Brown, gray or white. In principle, it should be a plain surface., t. to. a bright pattern will distract attention from the composition itself. The height of the pan must be 1 /3 from the height of the composition.

Drainage. Expanded clay or fine gravel is almost always used as drainage and much less often – Styrofoam. Expanded clay is usually purchased in specialized stores., so it can be used without prior preparation. But the gravel needs to be washed several times in running water and then boiled for 15-20 minutes.

Priming. It is best to use a ready-made succulent substrate. Although you can compose it yourself.

Decorative sending. It gives completeness to any finished composition.. You can also use multi-colored glass stones here., and gravel. Gravel, as for drainage, before use, be sure to rinse and boil. It is better to start laying pebbles with a "slide" from the middle of the composition to its edges..

SELECTION OF PLANTS

So that the composition is not "one-day", and for many months and years pleased its owner, selection of "astronaut candidates" must be done carefully.

1. It is unacceptable to plant plants together, requiring different lighting conditions, watering and winter maintenance. Besides, the neighborhood of plants from different continents will not be entirely correct – cacti from America and other types of succulents from South Africa.
2. Several species of the same genus are perfectly combined in one composition., eg, lithops, varieties of crassula (fat women) or sedums.
3. Slow growing succulents are best suited for composition., t. to. in this case, their frequent transplanting and pruning is not needed, or their dwarf forms.
4. Layer composition. Dominant element: usually it is a tree plant in the background, it is on him that the main emphasis is placed. It could be aeonium, sansevier, stapelia, euphorbia, treelike crassula or columnar cactus.

For your information. The height of this plant should be approximately 2/3 the height of the entire composition.

Middle tier: this includes lower than the dominant plant element. Desirable, so that they are spreading plants, bushy. Most often, slow-growing echeveria is used in such compositions., havor-tii, gasterii, pachyphytums, guernyi, piarantuses, senezio et al.

Lower tier (ground cover plants) : monantes, sedums, creeping crassula, etc..

5. Picking up plants, consider, that although they will differ from each other in their shape and color, but at the same time they must create the impression of harmony. Remember. In a medium sized composition (bowl with diameter 15 cm) can coexist up to 5-7 plants. More of them creates congestion and the composition turns into something unintelligible..
6. Compositions are considered especially expressive., in which plants are selected with a contrasting color of leaves and their mutual arrangement (the next, the opposite), as well as imitating natural micro-landscape (eg, desert).

COMPOSITION CARE

Composition care process, consisting of succulents, includes the following points:

1. Watering. It is carried out using a syringe, directing a stream of water to larger stones. Sometimes in the summer you can spray from a spray bottle.
2. Removal of unwanted plant growth.
3. Pruning creeping and ground cover species.
4. Removing dried leaves.
5. Removing some of the stones, interfering with the growth of plants.

You can also use a piece of shell rock to create a composition of succulents.. To do this, they make small (3-4 cm deep) holes, that fill with earth. Succulents are planted in them one or several at a time.. Watering such a rock carefully, each landing separately, trying not to erode the soil. The pallet is selected according to the size of the stone.

---

SEASONAL CARE OF SUCCULANTS IN JULY

For actively growing succulents in summer, now is a favorable period., to recover from wintering and prepare for the next. And though they are varied, Content approaches are very similar.. Let's highlight the main points.

Temperature Due to the long stay in the room, some species become sensitive to high temperatures - they do not have time to accumulate the required amount of protective pigments. If the plants look pale and elongated, or the substrate in the sun is very hot, shade the aboveground part and pots in the heat, to avoid burns and overheating. Ventilate the room well, and better put the pets in an open loggia for natural ventilation

Watering

Abundant (May through August) for most succulents when grown in bright and hot conditions. An indicator of the need for moisture is a slight loss of turgor by leaves., complete drying of the soil. If the plant sheds leaves or rolls into a tube, picks them up, closing the outlet, - it urgently needs to be watered. Water must not stagnate, swamp the ground. Excess from the pallet is drained, drainage at the bottom of the pots is required. Desirable, so that the substrate dries completely after watering for 2-3 days, in this case, you can water the plants 1 -2 once a week. It is better to use soft, settled water. And here are some supersucculent species, eg, I'm litolsam, globular euphorbia do not need abundant watering, Too much moisture can cause them to rot or crack..

Top dressing

Not required for most succulents. Due to slow growth, they lack nutrition- solid substances in the soil. Plants in a poor mineral substrate can be fed at the beginning of summer with special fertilizers or ordinary, diluted in 3-4 times. Avoid excess nitrogen when fertilizing, it provokes an excessive growth rate, stretching, cracking of fleshy parts and loss of decorative effect

© Author: Алексей МАНИКОВ. collector. r. Novosibirsk

---